You took some soap with you to check your connections on the air side right? I don't see how there would be a difference from the water side to the air side, it should last just as long.
WWJ (Six reasons Submersibles Fail)
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You took some soap with you to check your connections on the air side right? I don't see how there would be a difference from the water side to the air side, it should last just as long.
Well duh! I tried a dozen different ways to make the connections, and I know they were not leaking.
Air molecules can pass through almost any material. It just passes through some materials easier than others. With air in a diaphragm tank, there is water at the exact same pressure on the other side of the diaphram, which keeps the air from coming through the diaphragm.
With a pressure switch on the air side of the tank, there is only air at atmosphereic pressure on the other side of the pressure switch diaphragm, and air will pass right through from the high pressure to the low pressure side, which will let all the air leak out.
When you have water pressure going into a pressure switch, the water molecules are larger and cannot leak through the pressure switch diaphragm.
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If that was the case, my air compressor mounted on a 3gal tank running to the shop, would've been cycling from time to time but it hasn't over the last 3-4yrs because of no leaks to make it cycle. The point is, the air is not going to pass through the diaphragm of the pressure switch.
The point is, if air pressure drops in an air tank the compressor starts and fills it with air again. And surely you have used the compressor a time or two since then. But that doesn't happen in a pressure tank on a water system, you just lose all the air.
Even the steel shell of a pressure tank or air tank lets air pass through, so a rubber diaphragm passes air through easier than steel.
Even the steel shell of a pressure tank or air tank lets air pass through, so a rubber diaphragm passes air through easier than steel.
Yeah I don’t know why they can’t see the flaws in this thinking.
“Most pump manufacturers recommend at least ONE check valve…..to prevent backspin…..and possible water hammer IF THE VALVE IS TOO FAR ABOVE THE WATER LEVEL. In deep installations more than one check valve MAYBE required.”
ANY additional check valve(s) in the drop pipe, except for the one on the pump, is installed TOO FAR ABOVE THE WATER LEVEL, and will actually CAUSE water hammer on pump start.
“Most pump manufacturers recommend at least ONE check valve…..to prevent backspin…..and possible water hammer IF THE VALVE IS TOO FAR ABOVE THE WATER LEVEL. In deep installations more than one check valve MAYBE required.”
ANY additional check valve(s) in the drop pipe, except for the one on the pump, is installed TOO FAR ABOVE THE WATER LEVEL, and will actually CAUSE water hammer on pump start.
PVC pipe that is exposed to the sunlight will get brittle over time. PVC in a well does not see sunlight and doesn't get brittle. The "brittleness" of the pipe is stress cracks created by the repetitive nature of the water hammer from having too many check valves. Again, your own videos show how bad the water hammer is from having more than 1 check valve. These kinds of stress cracks are usually across the pipe as you have seen, not vertical along the pipe.
And actually water hammer caused by "check valves being too far above the water level" is only applicable with non-pressurized systems. If the system is pressurized, as when using a pressure tank, any extra check valves will cause water hammer, even if they are below the water level in the well. That is because the pressure above the check valve(s) is always higher than below the check valve(s).
And actually water hammer caused by "check valves being too far above the water level" is only applicable with non-pressurized systems. If the system is pressurized, as when using a pressure tank, any extra check valves will cause water hammer, even if they are below the water level in the well. That is because the pressure above the check valve(s) is always higher than below the check valve(s).
Craigpump
In the Trades
I have never, ever had a sch 120 or even a sch 80 coupling split on one of my installs. I've seen others have issues, mostly due to over tightening with pipe wrenches.
Do you mean to say that you don't use new sch 80? We like it down to 700' after that it's steel pipe.
Do you mean to say that you don't use new sch 80? We like it down to 700' after that it's steel pipe.
Craigpump
In the Trades
Only a fool would reuse sch40 or sch21 pipe.
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