My toilet began making a banging noise when shutting off, I noticed the ball type float valve would get nearly full, then slam shut, so I replaced it with a fluidmaster 400a. This one does the same thing. Is there a unit that will not do this? I cannot shut my water valve down because it sounds like a jackhammer when I do. Its either all the way on, or all the way off. My pipes are as secure as they can be so far as I can see from the attic. I will probably have my plumber install a water hammer arrester in the attic, but im not tearing my walls out to do it. Is there a valve that will prevent this water hammer or at least not make it sound like my pipes are about to explode from my wall?
Which fill valve won't have a water hammer?
- Thread starter Jed1154
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A Korky will shut off much smoother.
Fluidmaster hammers badly.
Fluidmaster hammers badly.
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OK. Ill try to find one. After taking a closer look, the noise is more of a metal noise, its not pipes banging around. I think the noise is about 6-7' up in the wall next to the toilet. I happen to have access to the cold water line about 2' above that. Is there an 'arrester' I can have installed there in the attic that will prevent this? If so, what do I need? Something I can get at the home store like a Sioux Chief? If so, which model? Its 3/4" copper pipe.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
The best way to stop water hammer is at the valve that is shutting off quickly; IOW, you do not want to put it feet away. Think of water like a solid. WHen you shut anything with mass off, the inertia tries to make it continue to move. That includes the whole pipe, which may show up by hitting something further away. You need the arrester at the 'end' of the line as close to the valve as possible. An arrestor near the toilet shutoff should help. Or, get a new toilet fill valve that doesn't shut off as fast such as the Korky Quietfill, as Terry suggested.
Does anyone make a hammer arrestor that will thread where the 1/2" shutoff valve is such that the valve can be threaded onto the arrestor? Basically something inline, outside the wall? I dont know that it will solve my problem. The valve is what causes the water hammer and pipe movement, but the noise occurs up in the walls. Not sure how though since I can touch the pipe going into the wall, and the noise is just below that. There is nothing for the pipe to bang on since its between the studs, not attached to them. Its not even touching the studs.
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Sioux Chief does make a mini-restor for the shutoff.
I would consider replacing the shutoff if it makes noise in the semi closed position anyway.
The shutoff valve is not supposed to make a jackhammer noise when new? I thought it was just a matter of physics and the way it works. I have ordered a minirester, and will replace the valve too I guess. I thought the valves were not meant to be 'part closed'?
If you have a new 1/4 turn, that's as good as it gets.
Some old shutoffs will have a loose washer that causes hammer or fluttering if they are semi-on.
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Awesome! Thanks a ton. I have a mini rester on order that threads right onto the toilet fill valve in-line. I don't know if it will fix it. IF it doesn't. my question is, since I can hear the 'clunk' about 7' up in the wall, I have access to where that pipe comes up in the attic. Will a full sized hammer arrestor fitted to the 3/4" copper pipe immediately above the noise (about a foot or so away) solve the problem or at least significantly diminish it?
WJcandee
Wise One
Here's the Sioux Chief brochure on the various flavors of Mini-Rester. Looks like an easy DIY install, and they give you lots of options for placement (i.e. compression fitting before the shutoff, just past the shutoff, right at the toilet fill valve, etc.) and a different product for each kind of fixture (washing machine, lav, shower, etc.).
http://www.siouxchief.com/Resource_/ProductMedia/155/Mini-Rester%20brochure%20WEB%204-10.pdf
http://www.siouxchief.com/Resource_/ProductMedia/155/Mini-Rester%20brochure%20WEB%204-10.pdf
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
If the arrestor doesn't stop the hammer completely, you may need to anchor the piping...it should have been anchored when installed. If your water pressure is high, that can contribute to water hammer. If it's over 80psi at any time of the day, code says it should be regulated to 80 or less. Most people live quite well with pressure much lower than that and it's easier on seals, washers, pipes, hoses, etc.
Im on a water well that has a 45/60 switch. I don't think the pipes are anchored because this one is literally dead center between two studs with no way to anchor it unless I pull some sheetrock. Ill try the arrestor. They have sharkbite ones. Does anyone have anything negative to say about these? I have never soldered copper pipe and was scared that the flux and solder that I got at home depot or lowes would be 'incorrect' or something. Im confident I can sweat it though. I have seen it done many many times....i know...its not the same, but I have the concept.
WJcandee
Wise One
For what it's worth, they have a mini-rester that just screws right onto the end of the braided hose that you use to connect the water to your toilet. It doesn't get much easier than that. It's available online if you can't find it locally. Just look at the PDF file I linked to above.
WJcandee
Wise One
I'm actually ordering two for a sink. Don't have them yet, but I will post when they are in.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Most sink faucets can't turn off fast enough to be an issue with water hammer. It won't hurt, and they're not very expensive.
WJcandee
Wise One
And yet...the two faucets on this sink induce an audible pipe rattle when closed, and given the handle design it's natural to just snap them closed. Only place in the house it happens, so I want it nipped in the bud.
Henry Rollins
New Member
This post isn't for the OP, but rather for the people reading this because they didn't have water hammer and now do after installing a new toilet (specifically, a Toto (Drake 1.6 GPF in my situation)). After experiencing severe water hammer after installing my new Drake, and reading dozens of online forums like this one, I was sure I wouldn't be able to fix the problem without installing a PRV. I say Nay Nay!
It's the fill valve. One of the ones Toto (or their distributors, not sure) installs slams shut and causes water hammer, depending on your abode's plumbing. I fixed mine with a FluidmasterARHR and a Sioux Chief 660-TK (probably unnecessary). Mr. Love has said Korky's QuitFill shuts off slowly, but in my opinion Fluidmaster 400 variants are the pants. They shut off slowly and gently. I would suggest to anyone who is having a water hammer issue to try a FluidmasterARHR. If you've already got one, try another one because yours might be defective. They're only like 10 bucks. As a last resort, try retrofitting an old school ballcock into your tank as it functionally closes as the water rises, rather than slamming shut.
It's the fill valve. One of the ones Toto (or their distributors, not sure) installs slams shut and causes water hammer, depending on your abode's plumbing. I fixed mine with a FluidmasterARHR and a Sioux Chief 660-TK (probably unnecessary). Mr. Love has said Korky's QuitFill shuts off slowly, but in my opinion Fluidmaster 400 variants are the pants. They shut off slowly and gently. I would suggest to anyone who is having a water hammer issue to try a FluidmasterARHR. If you've already got one, try another one because yours might be defective. They're only like 10 bucks. As a last resort, try retrofitting an old school ballcock into your tank as it functionally closes as the water rises, rather than slamming shut.
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