Well problems

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Hoosierphilly

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For 25 years decent water. Tested healthy. Now getting air pockets. 70-90 ft away a neighbor is on a supply hers gushes with no pump (but pumps for house supply). We have a a totally burried well. We were told in the middle of our back yard. I think we need to follow the pipe we see coming into our basement to the well to learn what it is. I was told it could be a point or a reg well, as years ago they sometimes burried both. We have been here over 20 years, and the previous owner many also. Neigther of us know what we have. The single pipe coming into to our semi basement should be a bit larger we were told. I need to dig to find the old lead, where the plumber had hook onto it new black flex stuff that the od is 20mm or 3/4 inch which leads to the pump where the L connection seems smaller . Old pipe (end open) previously used water pipe in our garage near the plumbing is almost 3/4" inside the opening . Since our water is good and many new wells have issues: like they hit shale and have black water. We can get a rotten egg smell at times, but was told leass and therefore better than many others have in their water. I would like to keep the same vein of water we have since others have so many problems with new wells (assuming that we have holes allowing air into our system). We plan to find the lead from the house as we know generally where to look and dig. Can't be sure how deep it goes. I don't think heavy LARG equipment should come into this area as there are sewage pipes somewhere under the 10-11 feet the equipment must pass over to get behind our house to work. Throw in undesirable water can be hit when our whater has tested healthy during this past year. If we replace the system we have, how deep should we put the lines, and keep the pump inside the heated deep crawl space. Do we need something above ground and does it need heat or insulation. I 'm think PEC lines into the stand up crawl space. But if we have 2" point well what size PEC to the house and if its a 6" well then what size PEC to the house. If it is a pump well, just wish I knew how deep it is before prying it out. And if its a 6" pipe then what to do. If we end up want a new well in the front yard where I have measurements from the sewer company for its main location, which means more care to hit a vein of water and miss that sewer line junction spot and the how do we get main water lead pipes under a driveway and with more sewage line location issues and under a low deck and under or through a foundation (how deep for PEC in our area and what size to the inside of the house's actual crawl space that is available the front 3/4 of the house) . If this must go in below frost line there is no way we can dig it up from under there. So many problems. Now I am just hoping they used PEC in our foam insulated heating lines under the floor instead of metal as we have well water. It is closed and with antifreeze for the radiant and the hot water heaters. ADVICE SUGGESTIONS. We have been hoping they extend the private public water line to us one day. That will be 5-10 years, as the nearest nearby proposed development is not progressing yet. There are lots of complaints about overdevelopement in the nearby towns around us.
 

Valveman

Cary Austin
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Lot of questions with no information to go on. Never give up your well water for city supplied water without a very good reason. With your own well you have control of water quality, quantity, and pressure. I wouldn't want the government to control my water anymore than I would want them to have a say on how much air I can breath. Both are essential to life and I don't want anyone to be able to cut me off for any reason.

In the last 20 years that pump has saved you at least $12,000.00 compared to 50 bucks a month for city water. I think you can afford to fix it up where it will last another 20-40 years.

Do some digging. See if you have a point well or a drilled well. If a drilled well it would be best to extend the casing 18" above ground and install a pitless adapter. Replacing the drop pipe in the well, the foot valve, and the pipe to the house would be a good idea.

If it is a point well, you may need to drive a new point. But I would try new pipe and check valve from the point to the pump.

Then of course a new pump like the one that lasted 40 years would be good. You can even upgrade to a constant pressure system using a Cycle Stop Valve, which will give you stronger pressure and make the pump system last even longer.

 

Hoosierphilly

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As we plan to dig and locate pipes and whatever well it is very soon, we need to get all potential supplies in house prior as they may not be available locally. as if we find and pull a potential point well ourdselves and reinstall a new pipes and pump well ourselves and will have no water until we reconnect. (Our pump currently works, although we likely will move the pump closer to the intake point in our quazi basement less friction when pumping and drawing). So, if we have a point well. and reinstall it with a Stainless Steel 2" (point system) next to or in the same hole as the previous one, what size PEC line should we connect it to our pump house . We certainly won't know how much well water flow is availabe to bring in until we have done this. How deep must PEC be laid where we get an average low temp in Jan of 13 degrees, lows can go to 0 and rarely below.
Can we keep the pump inside about20-30 feet away? Should we reburry it or how much above grouind must the pipe be extended and if we need to to protect it from freezing and how.
 

Valveman

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I would use 125# or 160# poly pipe, not pex on the pump suction line. Digging won't stop your water flow unless you cut the pipe or something. You won't know what you have until you can see it. It maybe a drilled well, which would not need replacing.
 
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