Well pressure switch or bad pressure relief valve?

[Terrordaktyll]

Hello, I am new to well systems and would love some help with my new issue. My well pressure tank and water heater are in an outside closet in my home and I use a oil radiator to keep the pressure tank from freezing. Well after a 60 degree day we had a drop at -3 degrees. The pressure tank froze up again so I turned up the radiator. When it finally thawed out, I could hear that the tank was short cycling. When I went out to check it out, there was a constant flow of water from the water heater's pressure relief valve. When I turned off the pressure tank, the flow from the water heater would slowly stop, and start up again when I turn the pressure switch back on. I have no idea where to start to troubleshoot this. I'm thinking either a bad pressure switch causing it to not turn off or a bad pressure relief valve on the water heater, however the water heater is 4 months old. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

Does your pressure gauge seem to work? You might change that just in case.

The pressure gauge readings should be key to troubleshooting this, I think.

Your symptoms seem consistent with a pressure switch that is stuck on.

 

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[Valveman]

The first thing to freeze is the little line that goes to the pressure switch. Get a hair dryer on that 1/4" nipple. The pressure relief is popping off because the pressure switch can't see the pressure and shut the pump off.

 

[Terrordaktyll]

Does your pressure gauge seem to work? You might change that just in case.

The pressure gauge readings should be key to troubleshooting this, I think.

Your symptoms seem consistent with a pressure switch that is stuck on.

Ok, I have an update. After work, I bought a new gauge since the old gauge doesn't work and I bought a new pressure switch since the current one is old and it was only like $30. I put the new gauge and switch on. Once I turned the power back on to the switch, I could hear it start filling the tank and immediately water started pouring out of the water heater's pressure valve. However, the new gauge on the switch rose to 60 psi and shut off and turned back on at 50 like its supposed to. When i actually flip the lever for the pressure valve on the water heater, the water would come much quicker. Then I shut off the cold supply to the water heater, the pressure switch gauge rose stopped at 60 psi and stayed there. So for tonight we have cold water just no hot. I assume the next step would to to swap out the pressure relief valve and see. Thanks for your input! I also checked that 1/4" like into the switch and it was not frozen.

 

[Valveman]

If the pressure relief is popping off at 60 instead of 75 or so, you need a new relief valve. They are made for emergencies and not to work all the time. After they pop off a few times sometimes they just won't stay closed. You might be able to tighten the adjustment on the spring, but they are cheap also and easy to replace.

 

[LLigetfa]

The first thing to freeze is the little line that goes to the pressure switch...

Actually, the first thing to freeze is the little bourdon tube inside the pressure gauge, assuming it is waterlogged. Once that happens the gauge can no longer be believed.
Most HWT TPR valves are set to discharge at 150 PSI.
A standard pressure switch that turns off at 60 would turn on at 40. If the 20 PSI delta has narrowed, it is likely defective. The delta on mechanical switches can be increased but not decreased.