Water delay into tank

[Dan Maranto]

** UPDATE** at the bottom



First off id like to start by saying I've searched, and read some good stuff, but wanted to make my own thread for any new updates, so here we go.

Ill try to keep this short as possible. Bought the place as a foreclosure, it had been winterized by the bank, and empty for 3-4 years. Fast forward to last October, when I bought it, the pressure tank, switch, and hot water heater were all still there, and my stolen, like the a/c unit.
Did some work in the place, February had renters move in. About a week ago, they called me and said the water stopped during a shower, and about 10-15 seconds later came back on.

So I went over there today, to take a look t things, I had to install everything (press. Tank, switch, water heater, ect) when I did my house, so I have a understanding of how things should work.

Turned one tub on full blast, the pressure gauge at the tank T started at 30, and held steady at 30 for right about 2 min 35 seconds, then nose dived to 0, in which the water going to the tub stopped. The pressure switch kicked in at about 20 (was hard to tell exact as the needle was falling so fast past it) there was a 10-12 second delay from the switch kicking on, until water started flowing into the pressure tank, filling back up to 30psi (according to te gauge) and cutting out.

So now my question is, could there be a hole in the well pipe, inside the well, allowing water to empty out of the "up-pipe", therefore taking a few seconds to pump back up to the top and into the house, after the switch kicks on?

Or

Could the switch be going bad? It was original and I can't tell what kind it is (30/50, 40/60, etc.)

The empty tank psi was 31.5, and the full was 48. So if this is a 30/50 switch, that empty tank pressure should be at 28, or if it's a 40/60 it should be 38.

Would it be worth getting a new 40/60 switch, and regulating the pressure in the tank to the correct level, before I have to buy a few cases of beer for a few friends and pull the pump?

 

[Reach4]

It could be a bad pressure switch. They are cheap enough to replace. It could be a clog in the nipple going to the pressure switch. You might replace the pressure switch, even if you are not sure it is bad, but inspect or clean the nipple too.

Your analysis of the required precharge is good if you have a submersible pump down the well. If you have a jet pump (not down the hole), then more precharge differential is needed.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dan Maranto]

Thanks for the input!

I'm gonna change the switch, and either replace or clean the nipple, and also replace the pressure gauge tommorrow. Hoping that will solve my problems

 

[Craigpump]

Change the nipple too, they're cheap. Use brass, not galvanized

 

[Dan Maranto]

Will do! I will update tommorrow

 

[Valveman]

You saw the switch close and then there was a delay before water started coming in. The switch and the nipple to it are probably OK. You had too much air in the tank (or maybe a bad bladder) is why it nosedived before the switch came on. Even then water should have started flowing immediately when the switch made. A hole in the drop pipe would probably blow air through the faucets. Maybe a stuck check valve at the pump. An amp meter would tell you when the pump actually starts and if it is pumping water or not. It should not be cutting out at 30 or hanging at 30 for 2 minutes with water flowing. Start with a new gauge so you can be sure what is happening.

 

[Dan Maranto]

Didn't think about an amp meter, I have a fluke, already bought the switch, nipple and gauge, just on a change em out since I have it, and will give the fluke meter a try

 

[Dan Maranto]

**Update**

Ok I'm kind of at a loss here, I swapped out the pres. Gauge, switch and nipple. Wired the switch back up, and now it trips the breaker when I try to re energize it.

So I cleared the line side hot wires off of the switch, breaker turned on fine, I have 242 across them. So I killed it, re attached them, and cleared the load side hot wires. Breaker trips.

I re attached them, and took off the line side again, flipped the breaker and there hot. Figure id just touch them on the switch connections to see if they'll turn the pump on. Outside hot leg was fine, soon as I touched the inside wire to the screw head it arc'ed and blew the breaker.

Took the line and load side off, and Hookd them straight together, breaker turned on fine, tank filled with water.

Could tht one terminal on te switch be grounded out some how?

 

[Reach4]

Updated at the top

So the update is that the breaker blows now?

I think putting the change in line would have been clearer than changing the original post without clear indication as to what is original and what is new problem.

Is this a 2-wire plus green pump, or 3-wire plus green with a control box?

 

[Dan Maranto]

Fixed it! Sorry about that.

Yes, it is a 2 wire plus green "ground"

I wired them together and bypassed the switch, and it started pumping water.

I'm thinking that terminal of the new switch has to be grounded out some how. What else would cause that?

Ill attach a pic I took of the wiring of the old switch

 

[Dan Maranto]

Now that I feel like an idiot, I realize I didn't check how the new switch was wired. The old one was 1234, new one looks to be 1243.

I'm at work now, so will have to fix that tommrrow, and ill update again