Wall switch needs extra pressure to turn light off?

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tracyballard

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Hello folks, I hope you will bear with me, but my house has some serious electrical problems, and about the only way I can think of to afford to be able to get it fixed is to learn myself. I've decided to learn all I can about household electricity even though I have always avoided it in the past (as a mechanic I'm familiar with 12 volt systems but household systems scare me a bit). I will be asking some basic questions as I go along trying to learn as much as I can, so I hope some people will be able to answer my questions as they have time.

My first question as I go along on this research is trying to understand what's happening with my switch for our patio light. It's a normal on/off switch, where up is on and down is off, but recently it stopped working - the light stays on no matter what position the switch is in. But if you push the switch down past where it normally sits, the light will go off. What issue is causing that to happen? thanks in advance.
 

Reach4

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Bad switch. Easy to replace. I am not an electrician.

1. examine the switch, under the switchplate. No need to drop power to do that. Expect (two screws) hold the switch to the box. Expect two wires to be connected to the side or back if that is the only switch. Expect 3 wires if there is another switch that also controls that light. Also look at the switch plate. Want a new one? They are cheap.

2. Buy a switch of the color and ease-of-operation that you want. The cheapest contractor grade will usually work well, and will last years, but upgrading to a commercial grade switch is not much more money. You want to use a screw to connect the wires, and not do a back-stab kind of connection. Don't be afraid to discuss switches with the store person. It's a very common thing with less subtly than many things.

Note: there are switches that can glow lightly when the light is off. No special wiring required. You might have to order that. The ones that glow when the switch is on need another wire. You probably don't want to bother with that.

3. Turn on the light at the switch, and turn off the breaker. Make sure you have the right breaker!

4. Swap the switch. Make sure on is up.

5. Turn the breaker back on.
 

WorthFlorida

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This is the only wall switch or outlet I buy because commercial grade is more robust and it has the backwire screw (not back stab). It is a clamp like washer under the screw and the wire is clamped down. I stop buying those 60 cent ones many years ago.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...k-Wired-Toggle-Switch-Gray-CSB1-15G/301447025

gray-leviton-light-switches-csb1-15g-40_145.jpg
 

Jadnashua

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Yeah, I much prefer those where you stick the wire in a hole in the back, then tighten the screw to clamp it in place rather than having to create a hook, then screw it down...it's much easier the next time if you want to change something and quicker to install. On either, make sure to abide by the strip gauge usually molded into the device so the bare wire will go in as far as it is designed and not leave a lot of bare wire sticking out that could short out to something. Too short, and it may not make enough contact and heat up which isn't good, either.
 
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