Two homes on one well / pump, CSV, etc.

[Triple]

Per my other recent thread (https://terrylove.com/forums/index....rt-cycling-w-no-visible-pressure-tank.102855/), I am about to purchase one of Valveman's pressure tank kits.

Right now our well supplies a single, small log cabin with relatively few outlets (one bath, one kitchen, one utility, one outdoor spigot). We intend to build another larger home on this property over the next couple years, however, and (if possible) run them both from the existing well. The run from the wellhead to the cabin is about 80 feet down a slight hill; the run to the new home may be closer, but it will instead have to climb as much as 20 feet straight up. The small cabin will house one little old lady; the new home will house a family of five.

I would like to limp my current pump along for as long as possible, but I suspect all this short-cycling has significantly reduced its lifespan. When I replace it, I want to ensure I install a submersible pump with the power/capacity to feed both homes under the conditions described above. Therefore, I am looking for any and all suggestions regarding flow rate, manufacturer, model number, etc. I don't know what is considered high quality in this field.

Regarding the Cycle Stop Valve kit... I see there are different products available depending on flow rate, either up to 25 GPM or above it. Is 25 GPM sufficient for the conditions I've described above? I'm sure something like the PK1A would work fine for just our cabin, but is it appropriate for two homes later on?

 

[Valveman]

You really only need about 10 GPM for two houses like that. The house that is 20' above the well will have 10 PSI less and the house that is 20' below in elevation will have 10 PSI more than the pressure at the well. You can turn up the pressure switch to 50/70 and set the CSV to deliver a constant 60 PSI, which will be plenty at they upper house. But this will give 70 PSI at the lower house. This should still be fine, but if the homeowner doesn't like the high pressure for some reason, a little pressure reducing valve can be added on the line to that house.

The PK1A is all you need as long as both houses tee off after the kit. I would opt for the 10 gallon tank instead of the 4.5 which is recommended foe multiple homes and/or the higher 50/70 pressure.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Triple]

The PK1A is all you need as long as both houses tee off after the kit. I would opt for the 10 gallon tank instead of the 4.5 which is recommended foe multiple homes and/or the higher 50/70 pressure.

For now, I'm going to attempt to fit the whole set-up inside that concrete pipe pictured in my other thread, so I'd rather start with the 4.5 gallon tank. I assume the tanks are interchangeable on the same manifolds, so I can upgrade later when necessary?

 

[Reach4]

Interchangeable. Pressure tanks under 33 gallons generally have 1 inch NPT thread.

Is that concrete movable if you get enough friends to help? Adjusting where it is centered could give more room for some area.

Remember to pick up that new pressure gauge. Also, if you replace stuff, it is generally good to not add new galvanized. Brass is better. Stainless is good too, but brass to stainless is better than stainless to stainless.

 

[Triple]

Is that concrete movable if you get enough friends to help? Adjusting where it is centered could give more room for some area.

Remember to pick up that new pressure gauge. Also, if you replace stuff, it is generally good to not add new galvanized. Brass is better. Stainless is good too, but brass to stainless is better than stainless to stainless.

I can move the pipe by myself, it isn't as heavy as it looks. And adjusting its center was my intention, may or may not fit, we'll see...

Thoughts on PVC? Nothing I'm about to build here will be permanent (though it will be braced/supported).

Also... the sediment here is pretty extreme. Should this system be filtered between the pump and tank/valve?

 

[Reach4]

1. PVC is very good for pipe, but it is not as good for mechanical strength as fittings. In particular, avoid plastic female threads.

Usually polyethelene or big PEX might be a better choice for a short distance. PEX is more expensive for a given size+distance, but for shorter distances, that is less of a factor.

2. Sediment wise, most say not to have a filter between the pump and the pressure switch. The worry is that the filter clogs, and the pump deadheads for hours. There are some special filters such as Lakos Sandmaster that are not so subject to clogging as a cartridge filter or spin-down filter. Sandmaster is expensive. If you do use a filter, put a pressure relief valve before that filter.

 

[Valveman]

The 4.5 gallon size tank will work, just a little small for 50/70 pressure. You can always add another small pressure tank anywhere in the house plumbing system. Even one installed above the water heater like a thermal expansion tank will work, as it will effectively double the volume no matter where it is located.

 

[Triple]

Remember to pick up that new pressure gauge. Also, if you replace stuff, it is generally good to not add new galvanized. Brass is better. Stainless is good too, but brass to stainless is better than stainless to stainless.

So Mr. Google suggests that under most circumstances, stainless to brass connections should be avoided. Why do you say stainless to brass is better than stainless to stainless? I can't find a clear consensus on this.

The only couplings I can find locally to fit the 1-1/4" NPT threads of the CSV1A are PVC. I bought them but decided not to use them, so my build is stalled. Stainless fittings available online are priced to the moon, so I'm not sure where to go from here.

 

[Reach4]

Here is a nice search for you:
stainless galling

When you read up on that, you will find that galling is worse at high speeds, so maybe with your hand-tightened threads, galling would not be a problem. Who objects to brass and stainless? I guess it is fair that not all brass is the same, and not all stainless is the same. So while brass and stainless can have similar electronegativity. Let us know what you think after reading up.

https://www.safefoodfactory.com/media/images/fig._2_galvanic_series_en.png

Also, avoid schedule 40 plastic female threads. PVC is not so good with tension over long periods. On the other hand, they often use schedule 120 couplings on schedule 80 threaded drop pipe in a well. You should be careful to not overtighten.

 

[Valveman]

Much easier to use the 1" female threads on the CSV1A.