Sink p-trap: 1-1/2" ABS versus 1-1/2" PVC

[DanielW]

I replaced my bathroom cabinet and sink, and now the sink drain is too close to the wall for the tailpiece to align with the p-trap, even though I shortened the trap arm as much as possible. What should I do?

My first thought is that the p-trap is 1-1/2" ABS, and if I replaced it with a 1-1/2" PVC p-trap (which I think is more common), I could shorten the trap arm enough. This seems like the obvious thing to do. But is the 1-1/2" ABS p-trap better in some way? I wonder if it is more robust or be less susceptible to clogs? Any reason why someone would have installed it instead of a standard 1-1/2" PVC p-trap in the first place?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

[WorthFlorida]

I particularly don't care for these but once in a while to get out of a jam, they do work.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Loosen B and try to get C and D out of there.
I am hoping that A is a a trap adapter, and that with the right nut (B may be the right nut) and washer you can put in a slip joint trap.

If that tailpiece is 1-1/4 od, you could use a 1-1/4 p- trap.

While looking at shortcuts, there is also https://www.homedepot.com/p/SIMPLE-...m-Single-Sink-Drain-Kit-3EA-1V2-TC0/313608432

 

[DanielW]

Thanks WorthFlorida-- I thought about that option and am trying to avoid it

Reach4-- Yes, that is exactly right. A is a trap adapter, so it would be simple to remove B,C,D, and the p-trap, and replace with a new 1-1/2" PVC p-trap. Is there any downside to this? Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

Thanks WorthFlorida-- I thought about that option and am trying to avoid it

Reach4-- Yes, that is exactly right. A is a trap adapter, so it would be simple to remove B,C,D, and the p-trap, and replace with a new 1-1/2" PVC p-trap. Is there any downside to this? Thanks!

Not that I know of. Those are usually made of polypropylene, whether black or white. In slip joint, there is no problem changing materials. You can even use chrome-plated brass, tho the plastic is probably more durable despite being cheaper. It is also much easier to cut polypropylene to length. Polypropylene is also available in black.

So the size change from 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 can be made at the input to the trap (as you did in your first attempt), or it can better (if trying to keep things smaller) be made with a reducing washer at the trap adapter. Then use a 1-1/4 trap fed with a 1-1/4 tailpiece extension. These are only examples:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...in-Tailpiece-Extension-Tube-C9794BG/205154054
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...-Trap-with-Reversible-J-Bend-C9700B/205153784
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...with-Rubber-Reducing-Washers-C2698C/205154062

 

[DanielW]

Thanks Reach4-- I'm going to do this. The reason I was wondering is that the 1-1/2" ABS p-trap is larger diameter than the 1-1/2" PVC p-trap, and also substantially thicker wall. The ABS one is 1-1/2" inner diameter, but the PVC one is 1-1/2" outer diameter, so that it is only a little larger than 1-1/4" inner diameter. But I guess this does not matter.

Anyone else have thoughts on this?

 

[wwhitney]

To clarify, there are Schedule 40 p-traps with glue joint ends (and the middle joint either a union or a glue joint), and there are tubular p-traps with slip joint connections. The former would have a 1.9" OD for 1-1/2" trade size, and are available in either PVC or ABS. The latter would have an OD that matches the trade size, and they are typically plastic (polypropylene) or brass.

Cheers, Wayne