LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
About 0.055 inch or 3/64 for the non-base10.
Maybe add another 30 inch well ring on top of the existing to keep out storm driven sand and debris out. Grout it to the existing ring.
Shallow well submersible to replace Jet pump?
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Maybe add another 30 inch well ring on top of the existing to keep out storm driven sand and debris out. Grout it to the existing ring.
Shop vac?
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islander1061
New Member
When. I clean it I use a trash pump. Not submersible, it has an input hose. And I use a pump that sucks directly from the lake that goes to a 3/4 piece of pvc with a reducer on the tip. The jet of water from the tip breaks up all the gunk and the trash pump spits it all out. Pretty effective process, but a pain in the ass to do.
If I can do this to get it down as low as possible, potentially to bedrock, and get this slotted 6" casing to run all the way down, and put a layer of gravel around it. Then I can drop in the pump with the inducer sleeve? I'm trying to keep up.
You could probably not fill the area around the 6 inch with gravel. Instead, you would, I think, put a slotted 4 inch inside of a slotted 6 inch and fill the "annular" space with "gravel" that is made for the purpose. The pump would be in the 4 inch above the slots. That gravel is much much finer than what you think of as gravel normally. I think that might be what was suggested. But maybe not.
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
I suggested the annular space between the slotted 6 inch casing and the 30 inch casing be filled with gravel in gradients getting finer as you go up and then top it with some filter cloth.
I didn't understand that you were suggesting the casing penetrate the filter cloth.
Boycedrilling
In the Trades
Here’s what I would do. This is basically how we construct wells drilled in “sugar” sand. Which is about a 60 mesh sand.
Clean out well to bottom.
Install 6” pvc steel or PVC casing. bottom 5 feet use a 20 slot sceeen, stainless if using steel, PVC if using PVC casing
backfill well to 3 ft above casing with 10-20 or 8-16 Colorado Silica Sand. 10-20 sand is about the size of BB’s. Back fill above sand with 3/8” washed pea gravel. Top with bentonite chips or cement grout per your state’s well drilling regulations,
you’ve now got a decent, sanitary well.
the filter pack mechanically keeps out the fine sand. The screen keeps out the filter pack.
Clean out well to bottom.
Install 6” pvc steel or PVC casing. bottom 5 feet use a 20 slot sceeen, stainless if using steel, PVC if using PVC casing
backfill well to 3 ft above casing with 10-20 or 8-16 Colorado Silica Sand. 10-20 sand is about the size of BB’s. Back fill above sand with 3/8” washed pea gravel. Top with bentonite chips or cement grout per your state’s well drilling regulations,
you’ve now got a decent, sanitary well.
the filter pack mechanically keeps out the fine sand. The screen keeps out the filter pack.
islander1061
New Member
What happens if/ when you want to replace the pump? Any reason why I couldn't leave the top of the casing protruding and cap it to close it off from sediment, but still have the ability to access it?
Yes you would want the 6" casing sticking up at least 18". You can use a pitless adapter or a regular well seal.
You can think of the pitless adapter as a quick-disconnect, in addition to the common reason of letting you keep the piping below the frost line.
If you will pull the pump for the winter, you could have a plug to a receptacle for the wires, and lift he pump out for the winter.
LLigetfa
DIYer, not in the trades
I presume you mean above the slotted portion of the casing where the unslotted casing continues up to the top.
Boycedrilling
In the Trades
Yes I meant backfill with filter sand 3 feet above the screen.
Extend the 6” casing above grade. Use a pitless adapter on the side of the 6” at the depth you want the water line. The only thing that extends out the top of the 6” casing will be the electrical wires. Use a sanitary well cap. It will have a fitting for electrical conduit to run the wiring back underground outside the 6” casing.
Extend the 6” casing above grade. Use a pitless adapter on the side of the 6” at the depth you want the water line. The only thing that extends out the top of the 6” casing will be the electrical wires. Use a sanitary well cap. It will have a fitting for electrical conduit to run the wiring back underground outside the 6” casing.
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