sewage grinder pit and pump installation

[leff1rj]

I am in process of replacing an 18" dia. x 30" deep pit that was installed in basement when house was built. The idea was this would be used for future basement finish complete with full bathroom installation. After living here for 10 years, my wife introduced me to the future and said she wants the basement finished!

I purchased a system composed of a Little Giant 2HP 230v sewage grinder pump (very impressive demonstration video on youtube sold me) and Jackel spiral wound fiberglass pit, 24" dia. x 48" deep. Pit has a 32" dia. anti floatation flange around bottom and same size flange around top. Concrete is placed over bottom flange after installation in 54" deep dug hole that has been backfilled with 6" of pea gravel. Concrete must add enough weight to keep pit from floating if there is a water table issue.

I have many questions.

I have read many sites before purchase and many sites after purchase. What I am noticing after I bought this system is the pits with the flange may be for outdoor installation. Does this make any difference? I am installing under stairway to basement. The so called indoor systems utilize smaller pits with less depth. The excavation work to 54" depth has turned into quite an undertaking. But if the larger pit is ok, I plan on continuing the Big Dig to China to install this thing.

The pit comes with 1 1/4" threaded PVC adaptor installed through wall of pit. Does the 1 1/4" PVC pipe just turn up via a 90 degree bend just outside of pit and extend up through concrete floor that will be poured back around top of pit?

There is no hole in side of pit to receive the 3" sewage drain pipe from bath. Is this as simple as hole sawing an appropriate size hole through fiberglass pit and use a rubber adaptor seal for 3" PVC pipe that has a big nut on inside that will tighten and compress rubber doughnut against pipe for seal?

The lid is appears to be a PVC material or a composite material with a checkerplate surface and no holes. This pit should be vented. To vent, would this also be a simple hole sawing of cover to accommodate an appropriate size rubber adaptor, minimum 1 1/2" PVC vent pipe?

Does it make any difference that the existing 3" PVC drain line from bathroom under concrete floor has an invert elevation 12" down from surface of concrete floor and that the 1 1/4" exit pipe that will come from pump through existing factory installed adaptor in wall of fiberglass pit has an invert at 20" below concrete floor? The inlet drain is higher than the outlet pressurized pipe.

Should pit be positioned relative to the 3" PVC inlet drain so as not to be pouring directly on pump? Would solids build up and cake on pump if solids hit pump direct?

Thanks to all for any answers provided.

Rick

 

[Dlarrivee]

You'll have to wait for someone who knows better, but I had to dig to China just to install a 30" tall basin, I don't envy your job under a set of stairs.

I'm quite certain however that if the float switch is setup properly the pump will always be completely submerged and you shouldn't have to worry much about waste hitting the top of it.

Mine has a threaded portion on the top of it for the vent, and a hole w/ grommets out the top of the lid for the discharge line...

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Cacher_Chick]

An 18x30 or 24x30 is common for most single bathroom basins. Bigger is good, but as you are finding, a lot more digging!

You are going to have to become familiar with your local code. Here a 2" vent is the minimum You also need to find out the test requirements for your locale, as not all basin and lid combinations are made to pass a stack test, which may be required.

I would contact the technical dept for the basin mfr, as they should be able to provide access to the appropriate fittings for sealing the basin to the inlet/outlet, vent and electrical cords. If you buy a quality prefab unit like a Zoeller, this is all done in advance and all you have to do is bury it and connect the lines. If you cannot get the appropriate fittings for an indoor installation, the basin is worthless.

 

[hj]

The connection of the drain line to the pit is done in a very precise method, not a "hole in the tank with a rubber gasket". The tank should come with the necessary device which you would then attach to the tank at the proper location and then connect the pipe to it. I have never seen a pit without the inlet openings, NOR any openings in the cover for the discharge, vent, and power cord. A 220/240 pump, (I only use Little Giant pumps for ponds and fountains), and that large tank, are also overkill for a single basement bathroom.

 

[leff1rj]

Ok. Thanks to all. I guess what all of you are telling me is that I purchased an outdoor pit because it came with no appropriately adapted holes in cover. Is this is the type of pit style use if it was installed outdoors?, that is no holes in cover? I'll check with technical department of pit manufacturer with respect to adapting cover to this application. Zoeller claimed no feminine hygeine products.

 

[hj]

pump

quote; Zoeller claimed no feminine hygeine products.

Unless it is a "shredding pump" NO manufacturer will guarantee it will work with those. BUT, Zoeller, along with others DOES have that type of pump. I do not know if you have an "outdoors" pump system, or just one from a lazy manufacturer who doesn't put the openings in the tank for you.

 

[leff1rj]

Ok. Thanks hj.