Replacing non backwashing Clack valve with Fleck manual backwashing valve?

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JohnCT

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I installed an acid neutralizing tank in my well system several years ago to bring my water pH up (it does). My water is otherwise without issues which is great. This tank has the manual two handle Clack valve on top with no backwashing facility.

The problem is that periodic cleaning of the tank is a pain because I have to drain it, unplumb it (is that a word?) and roll it out of the basement into the back yard in order to clean it out. So I'm looking to replace the manual two knob Clack valve with a Pentair Fleck 2510 manual backwash valve, but I think I need to also order a "bypass" with it? Is that correct?

I downloaded the manual for the Fleck 2510 but it doesn't cover the manual valve, and wondering what exactly I need to order. It's all 3/4 plumbing and I can measure the tank if that's also needed. Any help appreciated.

John
 

JohnCT

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While I'm asking about my acid tank, I have a second issue - my shutoff valve between the well pressure tank and the acid tank keeps failing - the inside of the valve corrodes where the control shaft goes through the ball so that the handle/shaft begins to get loose inside the valve. When this happens, I can't shut off the valve completely or open it completely after I try to shut it. Right now, I can shut off the water upstairs as needed by using the manual Clack valve on the acid tank, but this doesn't help when I need to add calcite to the tank. I still need a proper working shutoff ball valve. This is the third valve I have to replace in 10 years. My pH is about 6.2 give or take.

So this time I'm going to get a SS valve, but my question is whether a SS valve includes stainless for the shaft that runs through the plastic ball? That shaft is where my failures are occurring. Can anyone recommend a good quality 3/4" SS shutoff that also has the ball shaft stainless also, or is it assumed that a SS valve would be all stainless? Sorry if that's a dumb question.

John
 
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