Pump is short cycling, not sure wha to do

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kodom

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I noticed a couple weeks ago my pump was cycling over and over and water pressure goes up and down during the process if you have a valve open. I had to put a new pump in about 8 years ago due to a lightning strike but used the existing tank so hopefully thats not the issue as I am only working part time right now. last year I put a pressure switch and schrader valve on it and about 4 years ago I put a new pressure gauge on it with the float. I am curious though, I bought a pressure valve that was rated at 20-40 i believe if i remember right but when my tank fills it only goes to around 30 lbs. not sure what my problem may be any input?
Ken
 
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Craigpump

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By your description it sounds like your tank is out of balance, improper air/water ratio. Regardless of what some might say, short cycling is about the worst thing you can do to a pump. Either service it yourself by blowing it totally empty and then putting a precharge of air in it or have it professionally serviced. Service should be done on at least a yearly basis.
 

Reach4

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I put a pressure switch and schrader valve on it and about 4 years ago I put a new pressure gauge on it with the float.
Is that float you are referring to going into the side or top of the pressure tank?
 

kodom

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Thanks for the reply Craig, how would i go about putting a pre charge of air?

Reach, the float is in the side and part of the gauge assembly
 

Valveman

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Turn off the pump, open a faucet, then hook a compressor to the snifter valve and blow all the water out of the tank. Unhook the compressor, close the faucet, and turn the pump back on.

Apparently your above ground check valve, where the snifter is located is not working. Or your bleeder in the well could be plugged. The check valve takes the pressure off the bleeder and lets it open. The snifter lets air in as the bleeder drains the top 5' of pipe. When the pump comes on again it adds that 5' of pipe full of air to the tank. The float is an Air Volume Control (AVC) which lets out any excess air. All of these things have to work perfectly or you will have to use the compressor on a regular basis.

These things never continue to work perfectly for long, which is why I prefer diaphragm tanks anytime there isn't something stinky in the water.
 

Reach4

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Also, don't put a cap on that snifter valve, that looks like a Schrader valve, that blocks air. Caps made for the purpose admit air.
 

Reach4

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Would the compressor need provide a higher flow of air so that the added air does not escape out of the drain-back valve?
 

kodom

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Thanks so much for the help I'll give it a shot when I get home from work. How much air should I add?
I assume I have the name of the valve right, it's the one in front of the 20/40 pressure switch.
 

Reach4

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I assume I have the name of the valve right, it's the one in front of the 20/40 pressure switch.
There will be a check valve between the snifter valve (what it is called) and the pressure switch. If you don't see a check valve, post a photo that includes the valve and pressure switch.

The snifter valve differs from a Schrader valve in that it is designed to admit air if there is a vacuum in the pipe.
 

Craigpump

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Drain back only takes a couple pound of pressure to stay closed. Adding air with a little 12V compressor might take all day but it would still work.

Except when there is a small hole drilled in the drop pipe, then you have to put a schrader valve on the tank itself.
 

kodom

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Didn't have time last night when I got home and the same this morning before I went into work but i did het a couple pics. I cant upload them from my phone if anyone will let me email them maybe you could upload them for all to see.
I did notice this morning as I was taking the pictures when the pump cycled it would stop at 32 psi and then slowly drop to 25, so my range is 20- 25 psi
 

Reach4

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Didn't have time last night when I got home and the same this morning before I went into work but i did het a couple pics. I cant upload them from my phone if anyone will let me email them maybe you could upload them for all to see.
I did notice this morning as I was taking the pictures when the pump cycled it would stop at 32 psi and then slowly drop to 25, so my range is 20- 25 psi
That goes along with the bad check valve valveman suggested in #6.
 

kodom

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That goes along with the bad check valve valveman suggested in #6.
Is that something I can change out by myself? I mean if I disconnect power and start wrenching am i going to have a water geiser?
 

kodom

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Also forgot to mention there is a rattling noise when the pump starts thats lasts throughout the pump cycle.
 
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