Pressure switch contacts closed, power both sides, pump not running

[jonnyz]

I have a well pump that is giving me problems. The pump will not run. The first thing I checked was breaker to see if it had tripped. It had not. I then checked the pressure switch. The contacts are closed and do not appear to be burnt. Both the supply side and the motor side are reading 240 volts. I do not know what the pump is since I did not own the house when it was installed. Here is the info on the control box: Franklin Electric, Model: 2801050103, HP 1/2, VOLT 230 Hertz 60, Max Amp 5.9, Automatic Thermal Motor Protection.
The pressure switch is Square D, Class 9013 Ser B, FSG, On 30 psi, Off 50 psi
Any suggestions on what I should check next?

 

[Reach4]

I hope that you mean that you read 240 between the contacts.

First thing is to turn off the breaker now. Then figure out how you will troubleshoot further. The reason is, if there is a problem where current is running through the motor and the motor is not starting, you don't want to burn out the motor.

Expect more to follow after you open that breaker.

Edit: Download the AIM manual: http://franklinwater.com/media/110562/M1311_60_Hz_AIM_12-14-WEB.pdf

A good outcome is that the motor is not starting because the start capacitor has gone bad. Another good outcome is that the relay has gone bad. Page 47 is the start of some troubleshooting info.

When you turn on the breaker, there should be voltage between the black and yellow wires going to the pump. That is the run winding. There should also be voltage between the yellow and red wires. That goes to the start winding but the electricity goes through a relay and the start capacitor. The troubleshooting procedure has some tests you can do with the breaker off, and it has some voltage tests that you can do with the breaker on.

There are also current tests that you may not be able to do with your handy equipment. So anyway, do some reading. If you want more info, I am sure somebody can help with the troubleshooting aspect that you are having trouble with.

 

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[jonnyz]

After I discovered the voltage on both sides I shut off the breaker.

 

[Valveman]

If you have voltage coming out of the pressure switch, you need to check amperage. No amperage means the overload has tripped or there is a broken wire somewhere. Regular amperage means you have a big hole or a break in the pipe. Low amperage means the motor is running but the well is out of water or the pump shaft is broken.

 

[Jschreiber]

I am having a similar problem. The contacts are staying closed while the pressure is low, the pump is then cycling while they are closed and the system is demanding water. Once the faucet is closed, the pump runs for a minute to increase the pressure to the set point, the contacts then open ans the pump shuts off. Any thoughts on this. I am stumped.

I have a well pump that is giving me problems. The pump will not run. The first thing I checked was breaker to see if it had tripped. It had not. I then checked the pressure switch. The contacts are closed and do not appear to be burnt. Both the supply side and the motor side are reading 240 volts. I do not know what the pump is since I did not own the house when it was installed. Here is the info on the control box: Franklin Electric, Model: 2801050103, HP 1/2, VOLT 230 Hertz 60, Max Amp 5.9, Automatic Thermal Motor Protection.

The pressure switch is Square D, Class 9013 Ser B, FSG, On 30 psi, Off 50 psi

Any suggestions on what I should check next?