New well pump electrical issue?

[Kami]

We just had a new well pump installed in our deep 600' well...pump is at 450'. The water has been tasting sort of like chemical or plastic since we tried it again after the chlorine shock was diluted out. I just took a second look at the well head and noticed the wires coming out don't appear to be sealed. Does this look standard? We did have some wiring replaced that was damaged. I'm wondering if contamination could get through that opening.

 

[Reach4]

Is that in a pit or flush with the ground? When the pit or ground floods, water can get through there. Bugs can get through regardless. However I think well seals don't seal in practice, so water would probably get in anyway.

Regarding the taste/smell, it can take a while for the chlorine or other chemical to get out. There could be water with chlorine above the pump that doesn't circulate readily. That could serve as a holder of the chemical for a while. There are low-range chlorine strips/tests at pool stores that could detect residual chlorine.

You should also have a bug-proof vent that won't flood. What is the pink stuff where a vent would be? Fiberglass insulation? I hope that was not used in the vent hole.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Kami]

Is that in a pit or flush with the ground? When the pit or ground floods, water acan get through there. Bugs can get through regardless. However I think well seals don't seal in practice, so water would probably get in anyway.

Regarding the taste/smell, it can take a while for the chlorine or other chemical to get out. There could be water with chlorine above the pump that doesn't circulate readily. That could serve as a holder of the chemical for a while.

You should also have a bug-proof vent that won't flood. What is the pink stuff where a vent would be? Fiberglass insulation? I hope that was not used in the vent hole.

Thanks for the reply!

The well head is on a concrete slab maybe 3 inches thick. The actual well seal is maybe one inch off the slab, which I know is odd.

The fiberglass is what we had insulating the well head in winter (just sitting on top). We need to come up with a better plan.

The well pump was replaced a month ago. We've been testing the water and I think the chlorine has been gone for a couple of weeks. We were testing it with a chlorine drop test. The water doesn't taste like chlorine, but like plastic and sort of chemical...I thought maybe from the new wiring or something.

I'm not sure what a vent is? I new at this....Is it the white pipe sticking up on the left side of the picture?

 

[WorthFlorida]

Any line powered wire nuts should be inside an electrical box. The pipe from the well head looks like it has rusted away so anchoring down an electrical box may not be possible. Another is moister. Eventually the wire nuts will corrode and the connection will suffer. For now replace the wire nuts with ones that are designed for damp locations. https://www.lowes.com/pd/DryConn-Aq...-vccwkfY-SpEyqnUX5xoCg-EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Another is the insulation of the wires at the wellhead can be scraped off causing a short. One way to protect is use 1/2" plastic wire loom. You'll find it usually at the audio/coax/data cable section at Lowes or HD. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Be...astic-Black-Split-Tubing-Wire-Loom/5000876937

If you're OK with electric, you can glue a PVC box to the conduit. Make the connection and use the wire loom from the box to the well head. Here is were silicone rubber is good for. Fill the hole with silicone both inside and outside of the wire loom, only if the other side you have a vent under that pink stuff.

 

[Kami]

Any line powered wire nuts should be inside an electrical box. The pipe from the well head looks like it has rusted away so anchoring down an electrical box may not be possible. Another is moister. Eventually the wire nuts will corrode and the connection will suffer. For now replace the wire nuts with ones that are designed for damp locations. https://www.lowes.com/pd/DryConn-Aq...-vccwkfY-SpEyqnUX5xoCg-EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Another is the insulation of the wires at the wellhead can be scraped off causing a short. One way to protect is use 1/2" plastic wire loom. You'll find it usually at the audio/coax/data cable section at Lowes or HD. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Be...astic-Black-Split-Tubing-Wire-Loom/5000876937

If you're OK with electric, you can glue a PVC box to the conduit. Make the connection and use the wire loom from the box to the well head. Here is were silicone rubber is good for. Fill the hole with silicone both inside and outside of the wire loom, only if the other side you have a vent under that pink stuff.

Thank you!

We had a plumber replace our pump, so I'd like to call him back and fix the wiring unless it seems so poorly done that we'd be better off calling a different one. It sounds like the wire being exposed is a real problem and not having the hole it is fed through down to the well pump sealed is a problem.

You posted really good info on a fix, and I appreciate. It will definitely help me judge the repair.

I'm posting a second picture to hopefully show the vent?

 

[Bannerman]

A plumber is not an electrician. All electrical connections are to be performed within an approved enclosure so the appropriate enclosure should have been already present for the plumber to reuse. I anticipate the protruding threaded nipple maybe removed from the well cap and replaced with an appropriate raintight pulling elbow similar to shown in the link, which will enclose the wiring connection. Utilizing appropriate connectors, the elbow should attach directly to the exsisting electrical conduit and to the well cap to prevent water and insect entry.

https://www.bptfittings.com/store/conduit-bodies.html#product-popup-details-2638

Although those visible connections are above the water line, a well casing is a humid area and so those unsealed connections will be prone to corrosion. There are watertight connection kits available for well applications which if you had utilized the services of a well pump installer, likely would have been utilized both at the top of the casing and the pump wiring connection just above the pump, fully submerged in the well water.

If the white capped protrusion is a vent, small slots or holes for air to enter/exit should be visible. Your last photo shows it connected close to the center of the well cap, but the previous photo, seems to show it located farther from center, close to or outside of the well cap diameter.