SteveMitty79
Member
Can anyone suggest where and how I might wire in a fuse/fuses for the initial "smoke" test?
Need wiring diagram verification...
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Your generator should have a breaker.
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DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
Can you take pictures of before and after ?
Video would be way cool.
Video would be way cool.
SteveMitty79
Member
Yes, but someone said fuses were my friend, implying normal fuses were quicker to react in the event of overload or short? I just thought it was an additional precaution, so I purchased two double pole switches that are fused. I planned on temporarily wiring them in before and after the control box. Not necessary???
SteveMitty79
Member
You want me to videotape the mushroom cloud? How many miles back should I be when I throw the switch?
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
If you have them it would not hurt to use them.
The control box should have its own fuse built in for the controller voltage.
It is just a bit strange for a 230V controller to have a 115v plug.
What do you plan to do with the Neutral. ? Does your generator have a GFCI ?
You only need to stand back 10 feet, That way you do not miss out on the smell.
Good Luck. Wear your PPE.
SteveMitty79
Member
The box has a 20A single pole circuit breaker/overload protector for the primary power line. Nothing for the other hot leg because I guess it was made originally as a 110v controller with neutral, so no need but for a single overload.
They have the exact same pump for 110v with the same box and wire, but they sell the 220v pump with the same too. I kinda wondered how they were going to pull off the 110v version of this 2hp pump with 12ga wire, since the effective amperage would be doubled, but that's their problem.
I'm simply substituting the neutral wire routing in the box as the second power line. By process of elimination for the motor wiring, one brown being the capacitor start line, the other being the ground, the black and blue wires line up with the power and neutral on the 110v version, so I'm just substituting the additional 110v line with the neutral line in the box, theoretically converting to 220v control box. That's the only way I can see it and I hope I'm correct in my logic, or I will find out soon enough.
I plan on setting it all up in the morning some time and hope to have good news later.
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
You do know that the neutral is normally connected/close to ground potential, Right ?
I hope you have rubber boots and gloves.
I hope you have rubber boots and gloves.
Last edited:
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
How did your test go ?
SteveMitty79
Member
It rained a deluge. Clearing up today so maybe soon. I'll definitely update.
DonL
Jack of all trades Master of one
Rain is good. Then you know the well has water.
Many are not so lucky.
Good Luck.
RandyVMD
New Member
Can you post an update on how this wiring functioned for you? Is the system functional or did the control box turn into molten styrene? I have the same control box and am trying to run their 110vac pump through it and having trouble with overheating issues, 20 amp breaker consistently trips. Box came with a euro plug so I am contemplating hooking the box up to 220v like you proposed. How did your system work?
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