NCB-E240e NG outdoor sensor setup

[FDNY/RETIRED]

First I would like to say hello. This is my first post and I am a DIY type of guy, but have done more then just minor plumbing repairs. Still my Navien was just installed professionally and it is only 2 days old. My problem is the Outside sensor is hooked up, but never activated. I read the owners manual, and thought by just pressing the mode button 3 times. Then going to Display G and putting #6 in it would be set. But I find that once I get to G and then press the (+) or (-) it just moves to the next display setting.

My Question is do I have to use the directions in the install and operation manual on Pg 64 settings and Parameters 11.5. Get to the A.o.R.C and then set that to enabled. Then move to B and set that to #6? After that will it default for now to operate come winter time. So I do not have to mess with C outdoor low temp setting. D Outdoor High temp Setting. Also E Boost interval time ? Is there anything I am missing like how to move to the B and so on once I enable Outdoor reset?

My home is a split level high Ranch. Is still being elevated due to Sandy. I used Fox Blocks for the foundation and the house is elevated about 10 ft to the floor that was ground level. I have a 2 zone system with the first floor 120 sq/ft. Using a Slant fin 12 ft base board. There is a sliding rear door in that room That is zone 2. The rest of the house is zone one which is 3 floors Living room, Dining Room, Kitchen and front door entrance with small hall. This is where a mechanical thermostat which is going to be changed to digital in the hallway leading upstairs. Next floor is 2 bedrooms and bath with Jacuzzi tub and shower. Top floor is Master bedroom with walk in shower. Total radiator length is about 48' mono flow system. But my Bathrooms are a 2' and 3' slant fin base board instead of radiators. My basement was heated with a slant fin 18' ft baseboard. Before it was raised, but I cut that out of the zone 2.

I am going to put a Little Giant Gas operated ceiling unit or something like that at about 80,000 BTU to heat what is the garage and now a 20'x 24' storage space with a 18 FT high Ceiling. The garage ceiling is now almost 22' high. Storage space use to be a unheated 20'x24' 3 ft crawl space. Raising the house added 1,100sq/ft. So my whole house is 2,2oo sq/ft with a not so well insulated unusable attic. But the rest of the house has all been redone with R-38 fiberglass with paper for exterior walls 12" thick. Then new siding with 3/4 Polystyrene insulation and Certainteed Cedar impressions vinyl siding. Outside of foxblocks have acrylic stucco. Also my ceiling in the storage room also has R-38 in the ceiling with 1/2 pink board and then 3/4" drywall. I have smart flood vents which 4 are solid insulated, and 4 are vented to open and close depending on temp. So I could see where my heat loss is going to be. Besides from the garage door like usual. I also have a full pressurized fire sprinkler system through the whole house. Not my idea but the towns requirements. So I must heat the garage and storage space or I might have problems if it is a very cold winter. Some windows have been replace some have not but they are dual pane argon filled double hung. some are Anderson windows.
Right now my boiler has schedule 40 tubing 2" for the first 3'. Then what use to be a Quiteside Condensing DPW-120A POS boiler. Inlet and exhaust which use to be 3" dia to the boiler. Are still on the outside of the house. My exhaust is being switched to a different location. It is to close too a window. It is being replaced with Schedule 80. Not sure if it will be 2" dia or 3" dia. But the run will be with elbows about 12-16'. The intake will stay but also changed to Schedule 80 in the next 2 weeks.
I needed to have the boiler replaced due to a power surge when a tree fell, and took out the poles from Hurricane Asiasis last month. Took out all my GFI's Handicapped elevator and a lot of appliances. Plus the tree fell on my truck and did $10k worth of damage. That's the story in a nut shell besides asking the question about the outdoor sensor setup. I do not think I am over sized from what I have gone through with winters out here. I just want to start with default settings on the outside sensor. Till I really understand this boiler, and setting it up for custom needs if I have to.

Thank You for any answers and help I can get.

Never forget those who gave their lives on 09-11-01. FDNY/EMS/NYPD/PAPD/
Pentagon and those still dying.

 

[Fitter30]

I'm looking at a different manual are you in, outdoor reset is in setting the parameters. Than where outdoor reset get enabled. The flue both intake and exhaust has to on the same wall so the pressures will be the same. In the manual the the pipe sizes for the flus are in there and how there calculated and the correct type of approved material.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[FDNY/RETIRED]

I'm looking at a different manual are you in, outdoor reset is in setting the parameters. Than where outdoor reset get enabled. The flue both intake and exhaust has to on the same wall so the pressures will be the same. In the manual the the pipe sizes for the flus are in there and how there calculated and the correct type of approved material.

Sorry I been sick and have not dealt with the unit until today again. I did have the Exhaust replaced with Schedule 80 pcvp 2" dia. I had to have it moved since it was to close to my window according to the Towns code. But Intake and exhaust are on the same wall. Actually my heat has not been on since the unit was put in. That's why I am trying to get familiar with setting the outside sensor. It is still not on, but I am going to reread the manual. It is the Installation & Operation Manual. NCB-E Condensing Combi-Boilers.

I am on pg64 at 11.5 setting the parameters.
1.press and hold Diag button for 5 seconds to enter Special Parameter mode.
2. press + or - buttons to move to "1.PARand enter password. 1234.
3. just tells you press Mode to enter the 4 digit code
4. Press Mode when done. 5,6,7,8 just tells you how to move the buttons to move between modes. how to save settings and what happens how to exit by pressing the Reset button twice.

Then the guts of the setting programs
A. Config the outdoor Reset Control Mode
Box shows A.o.R.C for enabled

B. setting heat Load for the Outdoor Reset Control Mode.
I have convection Radiators on the zone for the Outdoor sensor. So do I use 1. Finned Tube Baseboard or 6 for Radiators?
This is where I get really confused Cause are the rest of these settings for #7 Custom Mode? Or do I have to mess with these. I know some say for custom settings.

C. Setting lowest Outdoor Temp Default is 14*F . I know it might get that cold or colder come Jan-March

D. Setting Highest Outdoor Temp. I figure that should stay at 70*F

E. Setting Boost Interval Time. This I am not sure about. OFF is (0), then it says 1-120 min
F. Setting the Max Heat Capacity for Space Heating. It says 100 is default. Setting Range 50-100%. I figure 100% might be to high for condensing and to may cycles?

G. Setting Pump Freeze Protection Temp. Default is 50*F. Setting Range 43-50*F

H. Setting the Anti-Fast Cycling Time. Default is 3 min. Setting Range 0-20 min.

I. Setting Pump Overrun Time. Default 40 min. Settings 3-40min.

J. Setting the DHW Max Heat Capacity. Default is 100%. Setting Range is 50-100%. I figure leave it at Default.

K. Setting the DHW Wait time. Default is 5 min. Setting is 0-20 min. (I was told to set this to stay on longer. So the 3 way valve doesn't operate back to Space Heat to fast when using domestic water. That is saves wear on the 3 way valve?)

L. Setting the Burner off Temp. 4*F is default. Range is 0-54*F.

M. Setting Burner-On Temp. 5*f is Default. Range is 5-54*F

N. Setting Supply Absolute Max Temp/ 180*F is Default. Range is Min set-point +36*F to 194*F (It says this for custom mode use only)

O. Setting Supply Absolute Min Temp. Default 104*F is Default. But it says 77*f to [MAX Set-point - 36*F]? How can this range be less the the Default. (Again Custom Mode?)

P. Setting Return Absolute Max Temp 149*F is Default Range [MIN Set-Point + 18*F] ~ 158*F (Custom Mode)

Q. Setting the Return Absolute MIN Temp. Default 86*F. Range 68*f ~ [Max Set-point - 18*F (Custom Mode)

R. Setting automatic Make-up Water Feeder Pressure/ AWS Default is 12 PSI. Setting Range 12-30PSI ( I figure 12 PSI is ok)

S. Setting Initial Start-up #. Default:0 (Auto setting: Total installation #/ 2, Max 3). Setting Range 0-16 ( This is if you have more then one Unit?)

T. Is for Cascade Protocol. Which I don't have since I only have one unit.

U. I think is if you have a remote control. Setting Zone Controller Communication. So that stays off for Smart Zone +Controller connected by ready link.

V. Setting Minimum Heat Capacity for Space heating. Is Default just says (%) but setting range is Minimum - 40% (Is this part of Smart Zone set-up or Custom Mode?)

W. Setting Minimum Heat Capacity for DHW says same thing has V.

X. I guess are for Navi-Link Connection which I don't have, So set to No

The main question is. If I set A to 1 or 6. Do I need to mess with the rest of these. Except which say are for Custom or the Link setup ? Or Does 1 or 6 automatically set up defaults for the rest of the settings?

Thank You if you read this and help me understand. Or my other step is get someone that knows how to set it up. Truthfully the installer who did a really good job installing the unit. Told me the truth that he really doesn't mess with the outdoor sensor settings. But I know I need to know how to do this. So I can get the most efficient use out of the unit. Has the weather changes around here. At least till I get a balance that will work.

 

[FDNY/RETIRED]

So last night it went down to about 45*F. Had zone 1 tstat which runs most of my house 3 floors convection radiators, but 2 slant fins in the bathrooms set at about 70*F, My zone 2 down in the room where the boiler unit is with no heat in there has a window and is 45 sq/ft. Also the 120 sg/ft. room which has a sliding door and window. That is where my Slant fin radiator about 12ft long is. It was set at 65*F. I had the door between those rooms open. It was about 67*F down there. Also 67*F through the rest of the house. But my daughter had one of her windows opened about 2" when I looked. Because I felt the draft coming from under her door.

I didn't set the ODS at that time yet, and I didn't stay down stairs long enough to see if the boiler was modulating. I do know it was holding the S at about 138*F, and return was about 141-149*F. They were both set at the default. That is if I was looking at it right. The PSI was holding at about 30.2PSI. I was only down there for about 10 min and the Space heating Icon was on and the Combustion light stayed on also. But both zones were not on together. The zone 1 was operating.

So today I got the guts to set the ODS and I put B at 1 for now. I left all other things stay at the default for the Finned Tube Baseboard. Supposed to get about the same temp tnite, and I will spend some more time downstairs. If I get up at 3am again. At least I feel comfortable using the settings. My big problem is the garage and storage area. I have 8 smart flood vents in there and 4 of them are vented with slots. They were not fully closed. They do not close all the way till it reaches I think 38*F. Those 2 rooms make up a little more the 1,100 sq/ft without counting height which I totally forgot about in all the rooms. I just calculated floor space area which I realize is a mistake. I was told instead of putting one 80,000BTU Natural gas garage heater in one room. I should put two 45,000 BTU Modine Hot Dwag in each room. Those fox blocks IFC do help a lot if I stop the drafts.
My other problem is the Tstats I have for zone 1 and 2. One is a mercury Honeywell on zone 2 rectangular with a slider. The zone 1 also I think a Honeywell mechanical dial rectangular. I want to put Nest Tstats in. The zone 2 is no problem I have a c wire Plus it is a short run if I didn't. But the one up stairs on zone 1 is only a 2 wire old style wire system no C wire. I am running my system off a Taco SR502-4 switch relay. It says on the Nest site I don't need a c wire. But everything I have been reading says I should have it. I see Navien combi's seem to have trouble with these nest stats. Running with not enough power to charge the battery. Too not working right with the ODS activated and 2 zones. I could use some advise on that, and I will research some more about it. Even if I wanted to put a regular digital. I would need a c wire for sure from what I see. Then the next question is do I need to run a resistor from W on one or both zones to the com on the 24 VAC on the Taco. One for each zone or on will take care of both zones. Or does it need a resistor at all. The Taco came with 3 different resistors.