Mansfield 160 tank/bowl leak

[Dennis Xander]

Seven years ago, I bought a (2005 vintage) house with four Mansfield 160s. I like them, and have replaced flush valves, etc., with no problem.

This is a 2nd home, so I am not there frequently, and leave the water off when I am gone. When I arrived a few nights ago, I found that water had seeped out between the tank and bowl on one of the toilets. I ordered a seal and new bolts, and pulled it apart. (In fact, I ordered a couple sets, as they are not available in the rural area where I live, and it pays to keep parts on hand.....)

Take a look at the attached picture of the flange where the tank sits. Looks like someone put a bead of a caramel colored silicon around the hole (between the and the three bolt holes) on the flat part of the bowl where the tank sits. The bead is still soft and pliable, but about 20% of it is missing, and looks like it was never there. Also, there was a second dark brown bead of some brown material down inside the hole. I removed the dark brown bead, as I can't tell what its purpose might be. There was also a plastic tab sitting in there. Can't tell what that is for.

In the attached picture, you can see the bead on the flange. You can also see the plastic tab in the bottom left. I don't see what purpose it serves, either.

I started to try and gently tighten the tank down when I first found the leak. Glad I didn't as this doesn't look right. The seal did not seem to have any problems, but I will replace it anyway.

When I install the new seal, should I remove the bead? I see no reference to it in any of the Mansfield literature I have seen. As it is not uniform, I think it may be a problem.

Is this a common problem with the 160? Until now, I have had no problem.

Many thanks for any advice or tips you can offer! I'd hate to screw this up. I know I need to be careful installing the tank and to carefully tight the bolts/nuts on a rotating basis. Just not sure how tight is too tight or not tight enough

Thanks!!

 

[Reach4]

When I install the new seal, should I remove the bead?

That looks like the color of a wax ring. Could it be that?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dennis Xander]

That looks like the color of a wax ring. Could it be that?

Don't think so...... This is not at the floor flange, but between the bowl and the tank. And the leak is nit at the flange, but between the tank and the bowl.

You can see the silicon-looking bead (that remains) in the picture. The one I removed was rubbery like silicone, too, but not putty-like, as you would expect from a wax ring. Both adhered very well to the porcelain tank flange on the bowl.

Thanks!~

 

[Dennis Xander]

Another question: When I removed the tank, the bolts ran through the tank, through the bowl and were fastened on with just a flat metal washer and a nut...... Looking at other things on line, looks like there should be a a rubber washer, a metal washer and a nut under the tank, and then a metal washer and a nut under the bowl, to prevent leaks around the bolts. Is this correct? Many thanks!~

 

[Terry]

There should be a rubber washer under the head of the screw that drops down into the tank and secures to the bowl with a washer and nut.
The best method is a washer and nut on the bottom of the tank, before setting the tank on the bowl, with the next washer and nut.

The caulking should be removed, and a new tank to bowl gasket used.

 

[Jadnashua]

So, the sequence is:

In the tank, one rubber washer, then the bolt. Under the tank, a flat metal washer and a nut. Then, you tighten that up. That should make those connections water tight. IF you put a metal washer under the head of the bolt, it generally will leak.

Then, you put the tank on the bowl - the gasket around the flush valve seals that opening, and then another set of flat washers and nuts tighten the tank to the bowl. Don't overtighten that, or you risk cracking the toilet.

 

[Dennis Xander]

Thanks, guys! Sorry to be do dim, but one more question: Should there be a rubber washer under the tank (above the bowl) between the flat metal washer and the bottom of the tank? Or just a flat metal washer as both Jim and Terry seem to suggest? Seems like one rubber washer on top should do it when it is tightened up, and I doubt a washer below would help, but I have seen some drawings with a rubber washer below, too!

I really appreciate the advice. I spent 44 years in the gas fields of WV and PA, and am pretty good with high pressures and gas. We always made things TIGHT. But we were dealing with steel, not porcelain, so I know I need to be gentle and careful. Tough to teach an old dog new tricks!

 

[Terry]

Thanks, guys! Sorry to be do dim, but one more question: Should there be a rubber washer under the tank (above the bowl) between the flat metal washer and the bottom of the tank?

You only need the rubber washer inside the tank. You can add more, but they don't do anything for you.