Low flow / pressure from 6 yo well -- advice needed

[PumpMd]

I found that the SS Myers was pumping 7.0mg/l on the raw iron.

This was used to treat the water before the water softener and it lowered it a .5 - 1.0 before the softener. He also had a RO system with an extra WM-6 tank for more storage.

http://www.water-right.com/library/documents/IMBF-MAN_Sheet.pdf

http://www.water-right.com/library/documents/WR Impression Filter Spec Sheet.pdf

http://www.water-right.com/library/documents/WR_Impression_Filter_Manual.pdf

Just the IMAF-1054 MES but I see they our calling it a IMAF-1054MGS now.

 

[rivergal]

When we did the initial water test, the iron was there (can't remember exact numbers, but not too bad), but the H2S was the bigger problem. We did invest in an air injector with Filox system, and a salt free softener, which worked well for us, until we didn't have sufficient flow to backwash the system.

At the depth our well is, H2S seems to be the big issue. Any deeper, and we start getting salt intrusion.

Agreed, once the pump is out and we can see what's causing the problem, then we'll know whether to go with a smaller submersible or above ground.

I really appreciate your responses and sharing expertise. I feel much more up to speed, and ready to take on the next steps.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Reach4]

Click Inbox above.

 

[rivergal]

Click Inbox above.

Thanks, Reach4. Have done so.

 

[Craigpump]

Your going to have to show me sometime, I've been wanting to rig up something different like that.


Very simple and cheep to rig up in the picture and want it to be threaded, you can put a bigger pressure gauge in it, my 200psi broke and I've been to lazy to buy a new one since I can still make it by with a 100psi gauge. Show us a picture of your well, so we can tell you how to hook it up on your water line coming out of your well seal.

This is what we use. As you can see we can pressurize with air also.

The 100 psi gauge is bad, I dropped it yesterday.....when we test buried jet systems we screw a plug in that passes 3 gpm and we can monitor pump pressure with that gauge.

 

[Texas Wellman]

My guess....holes in the drop pipe right at the pump connection. With steel casing you should go back with steel pipe but wrap the pipe above the pump with tape about 3-4 ft up to stop it from happening so quickly. Please don't try to lift that pipe out....NOT a DIY job.

 

[Texas Wellman]

I had to look at it again. LOOKS like a "cycle cop", not a CSV.

I agree that if the pump is hard to get out of the well an SQ pump would be much smaller diameter to put back. But you don't need the CU301 box that makes it variable speed or "constant pressure". You already have a Cycle Stop Valve to do that for you, which works well with an SQ pump.

I am afraid that the 10,700 rpm of the SQ will cause more iron to clog the pump than the 3,450 rpm of a standard 4" pump. But I would wait until the pump is out and the cause of failure is determined before making that decision.

 

[WorthFlorida]

Hi Rivergal. To help locate another plumber you might want to call a plumbing supplier and ask someone of they can recommend a licensed plumber that deals with wells.
I googled searched well supply seminole county, fl.
Ferguson is a huge supplier and they have a location in Altamonte Springs. Talk to someone at the sales counter as they do get to know who the competent plumbers are. You might luck out.
https://www.ferguson.com/branch/altamonte-springs-fl-plumbing

 

[WorthFlorida]

....At the depth our well is, H2S seems to be the big issue. Any deeper, and we start getting salt intrusion.
Agreed, once the pump is out and we can see what's causing the problem, then we'll know whether to go with a smaller submersible or above ground.

In Florida water around 40 feet deep is "clear water iron". You know when someone has a shallow irrigation well, the house sidewalks and driveway will have iron stains everywhere. Past 40 feet the water does turn to sulfur and the smell is obvious but you'll not have iron. What I am surprised to hear that any deeper you'll get salt water intrusion. Well another google search and from UF a document from 1961. Read pages 2 & 3. interesting stuff.
http://ufdcimages.uflib.ufl.edu/UF/00/00/12/14/00001/UF00001214.pdf

 

[Texas Wellman]

You wouldn't call a plumber to change out a breaker box, and you wouldn't call a well guy to change out a toilet. A plumber that doesn't have the right equipment, expertise, and knowledge would be a terrible choice for that type of job.

Hi Rivergal. To help locate another plumber you might want to call a plumbing supplier and ask someone of they can recommend a licensed plumber that deals with wells.
I googled searched well supply seminole county, fl.
Ferguson is a huge supplier and they have a location in Altamonte Springs. Talk to someone at the sales counter as they do get to know who the competent plumbers are. You might luck out.
https://www.ferguson.com/branch/altamonte-springs-fl-plumbing

 

[Craigpump]

I've met very few plumbers who were good at pump work

 

[Valveman]

I had to look at it again. LOOKS like a "cycle cop", not a CSV.

No it is an original Cycle Stop Valve. Just an older model CSV1Z.

 

[PumpMd]

This is what we use. As you can see we can pressurize with air also.

The 100 psi gauge is bad, I dropped it yesterday.....when we test buried jet systems we screw a plug in that passes 3 gpm and we can monitor pump pressure with that gauge.

Send me a picture if you don't mind, I've already been keeping my eye open for making something similar to your spear as well, I really liked it too.

 

[Craigpump]

This is it, simple, east to use & works great

 

[Mialynette2003]

Above ground pumps are nice but are limited to amount of feet they will draw. If the water table is over 20' (I'm thinking but not sure) you have to have a submersible.

 

[Valveman]

I agree you probably have a hole in the drop pipe just above the pump. If you remove the above ground check valve, that is not needed anyway, the water will leak back when the pump is off and no one is using water. This would confirm a hole in the drop pipe. And a little electric tape over that area will prevent it from happening again. If the well screen was clogged or the pump is bad you would have probably noticed some plastic impeller shavings clogging up the aerators on the faucets and shower heads.

 

[MichaelSK]

My research on Katalox lite suggests it to be a good solution. However, you might have an iron/sulfur metabolizing bacteria at the heart of the problem. In this case, I would suggest a Clorox injector with retention tank followed by activated carbon. Your first step would be a water analysis. Florida IFAS extension service will do this for a nominal fee. The only reliable way to measure the hydrogen sulfide is at the well head (the gas is volatile). Hach (google search) sells a simple color-metric test that uses a "gold-colored Alka Seltzer" to react with the reagent tab. You then compare the resulting color with the standard. You could use the katalox lite after the injector - it would work well with the NaClO. If you have the bacteria, you should sterilize your water system with Clorox. If you have a water softener do not use anything chlorine to disinfect it because it will de-cross link the resin. Instead, I would suggest peracetic acid (can be purchased at select farm stores - is used to process fruits and vegetables.) Do your homework.