Hey guys, I Finally got around to installing a sink in my detached shop. The water line was already ran by the previous owner and exits through the basement wall via black poly pipe. I turned the water on and checked for leaks, I noticed a VERY VERY slow leak at the threads of where the plastic barb fitting threads into the metal elbow. And when I say slow, I mean it doesn’t drip just accumulated in the thread. See pic below to see the area where the leak is. This has likely been installed and leaking like this for many many years unnoticed. What would you guys recommend I do? I’d prefer not to disturb the barb side since it is not leaking, and worry if I do I will create another leak lol. Kind of tight quarters as well. Can I possible just tighten the plastic fitting a little bit? Is there any sort of silicone sealants I can apply at the face of the metal elbow?Let me know your thoughts.
Leak at Plastic Barb Fitting to Poly Line *pic inside*
- Thread starter BobbyE
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I don't think applying something at the outside will do it. I think you need to either give that elbow another turn (which involves some disconnecting, or replace that barbed fitting, and replace the leaky joint.
But maybe I am wrong. Is there a hex on that nylon fitting? Maybe you could turn off the pump, release pressure, heat the poly over the fitting, and turn the fitting.
But maybe I am wrong. Is there a hex on that nylon fitting? Maybe you could turn off the pump, release pressure, heat the poly over the fitting, and turn the fitting.
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Well the leak is at the plastic threads that thread into the metal elbow. The elbow itself isn’t leaking at any connections
I took a better picture from straight on but the server won’t upload it. Maybe the picture makes it looks like the view is vertical, but there is no way to turn the elbow to tighten the joint at the plastic barb
If you were to try to rotate the elbow, you could cut a section of the horizontal pipe out. Make one turn, holding the plastic pipe and the barbed fitting steady.
Clean and dress the pipe ends.
Then patch the gap with a Sharkbite repair coupling. https://www.sharkbite.com/us/en/brass-push-to-connect/fittings/couplings/brass-push-slip-coupling
The instructions tell you how big to make the gap.
Clean and dress the pipe ends.
Then patch the gap with a Sharkbite repair coupling. https://www.sharkbite.com/us/en/brass-push-to-connect/fittings/couplings/brass-push-slip-coupling
The instructions tell you how big to make the gap.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
I'd just try tightening the barb or remove clean and re dope perhaps replace both 90, barb, the short piece of poly . I'd only want to do it once and its a simple job
That sounds good. I did not get an answer to " Is there a hex on that nylon fitting?"
I guess you think there is such a hex. Even with a hex, I am wondering if you could get enough torque to turn the fitting, since you are working against the force the pipe holds (even tho the worm gear clamp is loosened, and the big NPT thread.
Replacing the short piece of poly is not practical -- that is coming from underground from a different building.
Yes, I dont want to disturb the black poly/barb connection if possible since it is not leaking. I was thinking to make a cut in the horizontal run of copper, and then unthread the elbow still connected to the cut piece of copper while holding the plastic barb fitting by the hex so it doesn't move. Then apply new tape and sealant to the threads on the plastic barb, reinstalled the elbow with copper and then use the SharkBite you referenced to repair the cut in the copper. This way im not disturbing the barb/black poly connection since I dont have much real-estate there since it runs underground. From the looks of the threads on the plastic barb, I dont think any Teflon tape nor sealant was used during the original install.Thoughts?
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
It looked naked to me as well I thought I saw a hex to grip. thought it was a short piece of poly if not I totaly understand not wanting to disturb that side
If you pull the elbow off, use both good PTFE tape and good pipe dope.
Is that a 3/4 inch copper pipe that you will cut?
Is that a 3/4 inch copper pipe that you will cut?
I got the old elbow out and given the condition I am just going to replace it. I was able to get the barb out of the poly pipe as well pretty easily. And I do plan to use both tape and dope on the new one. Yes it is 3/4" Copper.
How hard was it to pull the old barb from the poly? Typically you heat the poly before inserting the new barb. Safest is boiling water, then heat gun, and finally flame is the one you can do damage with most easily.
When you put the new barb in, use two worm gear clamps with the gears on opposite sides of the pipe.
When you put the new barb in, use two worm gear clamps with the gears on opposite sides of the pipe.
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
ok whatever works a second hose clamp good idea for sure. brass 90 prefered no galvinized
it was definitely in there, but I was able to get it out with just a bit of movement and pulling. I will likely use a heat gun to slightly soften the poly for the new barb.
@Reach4 got it all done. Went smoothly. Used blue monster tape and Tru Blu sealant on the barb threads. Heated the poly slightly with my heat gun, and the barb went it nice and firmly. Got both clamps tightened while it was still warm. The shark bite slip joint also worked great. Here are some pics of the finished product. Thanks for all your help and everyone else!
Jeff H Young
In the Trades
Looking Good !
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