Removing media (not KL) that is not clumped was not that easy for me in the basement... Used the wet vac over a 1 inch pvc until enough media out to pull the distributor tube. Then I used 2 inch. However if your tank can be laid on its side, then it would probably be easier.
I presume the media is clumped pretty good. Yes, gravel would sink. But I don't think lack of gravel would affect much more than the bottom foot of media. I think you should have had bed expansion, and clumping was the only thing I could think of.... not that there could not be something I am not thinking of.
Reinstall? If you could declump somehow, I guess. If orange iron is gluing stuff together, maybe Iron Out could dissolve out that iron.
So remember, I am not speaking from experience. I am just trying to picture how things might work.
Thanks Reach. I appreciate all your help.
I haven't heard back from the company.
I really would like to get their thoughts before trying something.
I'll try for a few more days to contact them and if I can't then I'll make a decision.
I have some Iron Out here but like you said, I don't know what effect it has on Katalox.
Have to do something.
Just replying to let you get an update.
Just wanted to update on what I have changed/what happened.
My initial setup was inadequate and I think it caused substantial damage/fouling out of the original media. Coupled with the fact that an outdoor hose is/was connected to the iron filter in the summer and that was the primary hose for a lot of pool activities I think multiple factors went into the first iron filter failing.
Here are my notes/issues that I would correct from the beginning:
1. Do not use 3/4" PEX for any portion of the inlet to a Katalox filter (even with the 10" tank and the 1cuft media) it does NOT have enough capacity.
2. 1" PEX is questionable to use for the inlet to a Katalox filter...it is pretty much 3/4" Copper in ID and if you do use it I would highly recommend that you use sharkbites over inserts and/or OD connections to limit the reduction in flow. Limit elbows/tees etc ofc.
3. Do not put a small micron filter ahead of the Katalox. This I think was a major downfall for me (due to the outside hose) using so many gallons/day. I had even a 25micron filter ahead of my Katalox that was getting plugged up relatively fast and drastically reducing the GPM inlet for backwash.
4. Do not put a small micron spin down filter ahead of the Katalox. I initially had a 50 micron spin down filter. I'm not sure its necessary and if you do and you have quite a bit of sediment/iron/sand/etc you need to make sure its cleaned pretty regularly (for me it was daily almost due to the hose). This is what I had.
I do think that MAYBE this would work pretty well but it wasn't available at the time. I am done plumbing for awhile hopefully...but if I do make changes in the future I would probably add this and remove my 100 micron filter ahead of my Katalox tank.
5. Daily backwash in summer, probably down to 2 days rest of year. I do not think there is a downside to backwashing daily if your septic can support it (mine can).
6. I would highly recommend the 1" Stainless Steel bypass valve over the 3/4" Stainless valve for GPM reasons.
7. I would have gone with 1.5 cu/ft minimum (and I do now)
My Current setup:
1" Copper Inlet ---> 1" Sharkbite Valve --> 100 Micron/150 Micron (playing around with size screen still) Spin Down filter --> 1" Flex Hose --> 1" Katalox Inlet -->10" Katalox Tank AIO Fleck 2510SXT w/1.5cu/ft --> 1" Katalox Outlet --> 1" Flex Hose --> 1" Copper --> 1" Sharkbite Valve --> 1" PEX --> Big Blue Filter 25/50 Micron --> Water Softener --> Big Blue Filter 1/5 Micron --> House
With the 1" Copper Inlet/All 1" Fittings my GPM is
SUBSTANTIALLY better than with the 3/4" Inlet/Pex etc...
Here is what it looks like now with the 7GPM DLFC with the DLFC washer/reducer inside removed (I think it gives like 8.5-9 GPM personally based on tests):
9.5" of lift (almost 10") and I cannot go higher or I will lose media. I DID try to use a 10 GPM DLFC with a 3/4" Outlet hose and I did lose some media.
**EDIT I WROTE *8GPM DLFC I think it is a 7 GPM DLFC, it is the STANDARD PLASTIC ONE**
The well line is what it hits when the well pump is on so I have max pressure, and the bottom line is right before it kicks on (so lowest pressure. (40/60 standard settings on well pump). Per my well guy my well pump can go anywhere between 15-20GPM so it is not a limitation here.
-----60 PSIG 10GPM DLFC - Overflowed/lost media
-----60 PSI 7GPM NO DLFC INSERT
-----40 PSI 7GPM NO DLFC INSERT
-----60 PSI 7GPM DLFC INSERT (It says 8 but I'm not sure if its 7 or 8 GPM, it is the standard Plastic one) - this was just for a test I do not use this
-----Base Settled 20ish hours after previous backwash cycle
Just some other things to note:
- I moved into the house approximately 1 year ago. Previous owner had a tiny filter that they said they replaced weekly for iron (6$/cartridge a week), and had a tiny like 15000-18000grain softener not entirely sure...everything had iron stains, everything had foul sulfur smell. See original post for Iron ppm/magnesium etc...
- I have not re-tested water but based on my spin down filter which is 50-150 microns (i have 3 different filter inserts i've been trying) anecdotetally my Iron levels I believe are much lower...at the very least there is WAY less iron particulate and iron chunks. I'm not sure if my usage caused us to drop lower into the water table where there is less iron or what happened but that spin down filter rarely has chunks now and it doesn't even get dirty (monthly flush/bi monthly wash) vs before it was a daily flush with almost a week/biweekly complete wash completely covered in iron. I am going to re-test the water here shortly both outdoor/indoor water quality.
- Sulfur smell can be removed with JUST a 50 micron poly filter
- Almost all iron can be removed with just a 5 micron filter (changed weekly/biweekly)
Last update on my old tank/controller. Something went wrong with the controller and it wasn't backwashing correctly (I think a gasket/spacer broke or something) and then I couldn't get to fix it and the media sat in the tank and it is all like rockhard now and I'm not sure if the controller is completely broken or if it just doesn't work because the media is so fouled out (it will not backwash at all and sounds like it is in brine draw when it is supposed to be backwashing). I am going to completely tear it down in the summer and powerwash the media out and have a backup tank available but it is completely in disrepair right now.
Here is original product I bought. It comes pre-assembled, pre-filled, controller is already setup. It comes with almost 0 instructions (I had to call for support when the controller wasn't programmed cause I couldn't install right away). One negative is that whoever put it together screwed the controller on and pinched the cable between the controller and the tank which could have caused a pretty bad short/ruined the wiring (it didn't but it could have and it left a big indent in the AC wiring). Overall tech support is very good, the guy that they have supporting them is very available and he is very helpful in troubleshooting. I also don't like that their description for the Katalox filter has a link to Filox and not Katalox...but I was assured it would be Katalox (from what I can tell it is), but the website is STILL not fixed:
The FLECK 2510SXT system removes iron, sulfur, and other harmful items without chemicals. Our most popular iron removal system for homes comes with Katalox Light for heavy-duty iron removal. The Air Injection Iron Filter Oxidation (AIO) technology oxidizes the iron removing it, giving you clean...
www.reverseosmosis.com
Here is new product I bought. (I personally think the air in is a better setup than the original). They ship it not assembled, and you have to pour everything in yourself (not hard obviously). They also give you tons of inserts on what settings to put in, the controller user guides etc...very detailed. I have called their support and they are very responsive/helpful. I will say that they didn't thread the DLFC correctly onto the quick connect and it was leaking badly and if I remember right it wasn't taped at all...whereas the other didn't have this issue. (easy fix - tape and tighten)
Helps to RemoveColor - Odors - Iron - Manganese - Hydrogen Sulfide - Arsenic - Radium - Heavy Metals - RadionuclidesKatalox Light is being used in numerous systems for residential, commercial, industrial and municipal applications worldwide.Click to Read More about Katalox Light
www.aquascience.net
I am not pushing recommendations to either site, essentially they both gave 95% of the same hardware and you could just buy it yourself directly (except for the way that the air draw in happens which I think the 2nd and current setup is substantially better/more robust. I just wanted to post where I got the stuff from. (Maybe you could build it all cheaper if you bought all separately but I didn't want to, but I probably will next time).
For
Reach4, can you post table for expansion/gpm for the 10" tank for 1.5 cuft of media. I'm curious what type of expansion I am getting (not that I can do more anyways). It is maybe slightly more gravel per the sales rep it was 17lbs of gravel approx.
I think based on previous posts 1.5cuft of media is 33ish" I'm getting approx...
9.5/33 = 29% Expansion
10/33 = 30% Expansion
Any other questions let me know and I'll respond...hopefully I'm done for awhile.