I'm getting ready to trench to well to replace schedule 40 pipe-suggestions

[Onokai]

I have a few hundred feet from house to well. I put in white 1 inch schedule 40 about 40 years ago. tree roots have popped some joints over time and I want a stronger pipe as I'm tired of fixing them. I'm thinking 1 inch grey schedule 80. Is it all the same electrical conduit (carlon) or is there better schedule water pipes like chariot brand for drinking water
At the same time I'm running 1 1/4 conduit for new wire service to well
Tell me my best options please. The ground is clay with some small rocks

 

[Reach4]

https://www.charlottepipe.com/Documents/PL_Tech_Man/ExpansionandContraction.pdf has info on dealing with thermal expansion and contraction of PVC.

Your glued PVC pipe might ah

I think the grey pvc they use for schedule 80 is different from the stuff they provide for schedule 4o for potable water. It seems to have more plasticizers. A 10 ft stick of the schedule 80 gray electrical conduit is not stiffer IMO than schedule 40 white pressure pipe, and it would be much stiffer if it were the same material. The white schedule 40 seems harder to the fingernail.

They sell 20 ft schedule 80 primarily for well work. Those are normally threaded into couplers. The schedule 8o I have seen for wells is white. However for your run, I would consider SIDR polyethylene pipe. You connect it at each end with barbed insert connectors, with two stainless steel worm gear clamps at each end. (worms on opposite sides). For polyethylene pipe, you don't pull it tight, to allow for cold contraction. You snake it.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[WorthFlorida]

Schedule 80 has a smaller inder diameter than Sch 40. You may want to up the size of the pipe from the well. Reaches suggestion of polyethylene pipe is worthwhile since you can get it in 100' coils or more, therefore less joints to fail.

Regardless of which pipe to use from the well, you can bury a 2" or 2/5" PVC pipe and use it as a conduit with the 1" pipe inside of it. The outer pipe will take the brunt of the ground movement and tree root lifting before the inter pipe would fail. Schedule 80 may not help much of movement and tree roots are causing failures at the glued couplers. The strength at couplers are how deep the glueing surface is. Most are 1" regardless of Sch. Irrigation and electrical PVC can be bought with bell ends whereby its about 2" or more of one continuous glued joint. In Florida here I've seen PVC pipe lifted due to tree roots and the glue joint pulls apart.

 

[Boycedrilling]

PVC conduit and PVC water pipe do NOT have the same formulation the PVC recipe used for conduit is not designed for internal pressure, it is designed for external impact resistance. Sewer pipe is also a different PVC formulation designed for external crushing pressure, not internal pressures.

For your application HDPE might be a better choice. With brass compression fittings, not inside barb fittings. You will not find this at a big box store for consumers. You get this at a water works supply house. It might surprise you, but Home depot, has a whole other chain called HD supply for the commercial & industrial market.

 

[Boycedrilling]

It's the same thing with PEX tubing. I don't buy my PEX at a big box store. It's lower quality that what you buy at supply houses. I use Upenor brand PEX and fittings with the expansion rings that I buy at my local Ferguson branch.

 

[Boycedrilling]

Normally I fusion bond fittings on hdpe pipe, but compression fittings work also.

Your problem was tree roots moving the pipe and pulling it out of the glued connections. Sch 80 will not change that problem compared to schedule 40 pvc.

 

[Onokai]

Schedule 80 has a smaller inder diameter than Sch 40. You may want to up the size of the pipe from the well. Reaches suggestion of polyethylene pipe is worthwhile since you can get it in 100' coils or more, therefore less joints to fail.

Regardless of which pipe to use from the well, you can bury a 2" or 2/5" PVC pipe and use it as a conduit with the 1" pipe inside of it. The outer pipe will take the brunt of the ground movement and tree root lifting before the inter pipe would fail. Schedule 80 may not help much of movement and tree roots are causing failures at the glued couplers. The strength at couplers are how deep the glueing surface is. Most are 1" regardless of Sch. Irrigation and electrical PVC can be bought with bell ends whereby its about 2" or more of one continuous glued joint. In Florida here I've seen PVC pipe lifted due to tree roots and the glue joint pulls apart.

Ok I like this suggestion the best-The outer jacket is perfect as it buys me time-hell I'm old enough for this to go the distance -the only downside is if it leaks and I have to find it. I'll go with regular water schedule 40 and put that there extra pipe in the tree areas that may cause trouble later with roots.
Thanks for all the ideas-its about a 150 foot -200 run near some huge redwoods and a large apple tree,