How to vent kitchen sink in front of window.

Users who are viewing this thread

Eweneek1

Member
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Want to move kitchen sink in front of exterior window. Need suggestions on how to vent. Exterior wall is full dimension redwood studs. Problem is there a 4" x 12"beam under the wall. Possible to drain straight down through the floor under the sink. Could go horizontal outside the wall a couple feet past the window, then back into the wall and vertically up.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,954
Reaction score
2,235
Points
113
Location
92346
had an olderhome pretty expensive issue was it was 2 story they didnt want to open walls above I ran vent exposed on outside of house in dwv copper they were ok with the look strapped with copper straps and wasent noticeable in the yard heavily landscaped they were happy with it.
Or you could go outlaw style studor vent LOL. the way all those IPC code folks do it
3rd cant you notch into that beam sitting on a wall and 45 around it just barely notching it?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,899
Reaction score
4,436
Points
113
Location
IL
See this and say why it does not work for you.
index.php


There is a limit to how long that trap arm can be.
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,954
Reaction score
2,235
Points
113
Location
92346
Eweeneek1, I re read your post , inspectors generally dont like what you suggested "offseting a vent horrizontally while less than 6 inches above the floodlevel of the sink " basically we usually shoot for 42 inches high minimum.
but as in Reach 4 photo posted you could in a similar fasion presumeably under a cabinet penetrate floor outside wall to side of sink that has no obstruction like a dishwasher point santee and trap arm toward sink against outside of wall with room for drywall vent can be offset with a couple 45s into the stud cavity no need to be above flood level when using a 45 . Easy as Pie!
 

Eweneek1

Member
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
Points
6
The photo Reach 4 shows would work, but there is that 4x12 beam under the wall. Jeff H Young describes a similar solution. Not sure if I understand it completely. Would I move the drain and vent outside the wall and then use 45s to get both back in the stud cavity?
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,954
Reaction score
2,235
Points
113
Location
92346
Eweeneek1 , Not too clear you did say there was a beam under the wall ? not on top of the wall? My comment was also that perhaps you might not want to drill out king studs trimmers etc.. shouldnt be hard to do are you good now ?
 

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
6,567
Reaction score
1,847
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
Not sure if I understand it completely. Would I move the drain and vent outside the wall and then use 45s to get both back in the stud cavity?
See the cross section drawing below. The black lines show the beam, subfloor, bottom plate, stud, and interior gypsum board. The beam and bottom plate have Xs across their cross section to indicate you are looking at end grain.

Then the red would be your pipe. Basically it just kisses the corner of the beam. This is hand drawn, and so only very crudely to scale, but it looks like the pipe would stick out a little at the subfloor. Which generally isn't a problem, it would be hidden in a cabinet toe space.

Cheers, Wayne

45pipe.jpg
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,954
Reaction score
2,235
Points
113
Location
92346
either way works ive come up like shown hundreds of times literaly sometimes the bottom is outside wall but presuming its a cabinet with kick space shouldnt be an issue . did you want to drill out all the structural members king studs etc?
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,899
Reaction score
4,436
Points
113
Location
IL
The photo Reach 4 shows would work, but there is that 4x12 beam under the wall. Jeff H Young describes a similar solution. Not sure if I understand it completely. Would I move the drain and vent outside the wall and then use 45s to get both back in the stud cavity?
Maybe. But you can also run the drain line through the floor of the cabinet. Where you want it out of the wall, bring it into the cabinet.

So below the santee, you can go horizontal, except that vertical to horizontal transitions must be long sweeps or 45s or combos.

You should really try your own drawing or photo. The words are not as easy to follow as you think they are.
 

Attachments

  • img_2.jpg
    img_2.jpg
    29.6 KB · Views: 88
Last edited:

Eweneek1

Member
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Code won't let me drill holes big enough to use 1 1/2" or 2" ABS pipe in exterior load bearing wall studs.. Will need to stay outside wall using 1 1/2" trap arm to drain which is also outside wall. Then will 45 back into stud bay with 1 1/2 vent pipe. Drain pipe will be 2".

Can't decide whether to use ABS or PVC. Most plumbing is cast iron. House built in 1886 with ballooon framing.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2526.jpg
    IMG_2526.jpg
    113.5 KB · Views: 88

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,954
Reaction score
2,235
Points
113
Location
92346
Code won't let me drill holes big enough to use 1 1/2" or 2" ABS pipe in exterior load bearing wall studs.. Will need to stay outside wall using 1 1/2" trap arm to drain which is also outside wall. Then will 45 back into stud bay with 1 1/2 vent pipe. Drain pipe will be 2".

Can't decide whether to use ABS or PVC. Most plumbing is cast iron. House built in 1886 with ballooon framing.
post 5 , I might not have been clear bringing waste line up through floor in front of wall and running trap arm OUTSIDE the wall no need to butcher the structure. Dont use a Combi use a 2x 1 1/2 x1 1/2 santee if trap arm will be under 42 inches . Just be sure there isnt a dish washer in the way or a trash compactor
 

Reach4

Well-Known Member
Messages
38,899
Reaction score
4,436
Points
113
Location
IL
Can't decide whether to use ABS or PVC. Most plumbing is cast iron. House built in 1886 with ballooon framing.
Use ABS. It is what is in your local stores. Technically there is little difference, but go with what the locals use.
 

wwhitney

In the Trades
Messages
6,567
Reaction score
1,847
Points
113
Location
Berkeley, CA
Code won't let me drill holes big enough to use 1 1/2" or 2" ABS pipe in exterior load bearing wall studs.
That's not quite accurate. The IRC includes a prescriptive allowance to drill up to 60% hole diameter in up to two exterior studs in a row, if you double each stud. It also allows the use of stud shoes to reinforce single studs, such as Simpson's HSS2-SDS1.5.


However, I'm not taking a position on whether DWV routing through the studs is better or worse than outside the wall, just wanted to provide the options.

Cheers, Wayne
 

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,954
Reaction score
2,235
Points
113
Location
92346
Yes wayne I didnt challenge him saying a code violation just took his word that some reason someone stopped him from drilling studs on thgis old home . I only suggest going in front of the wall because its easier and Im cautios drilling out studs on exterior walls especially under windows . I wonder if that 60 percent rule applys to redwood framing or unstamped lumber or if there are exceptions where it might not be allowed its quite old around 150 years old I think he said.
Also he says there is a beam on top of the wall and never clarified that
 

Eweneek1

Member
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Yes wayne I didnt challenge him saying a code violation just took his word that some reason someone stopped him from drilling studs on thgis old home . I only suggest going in front of the wall because its easier and Im cautios drilling out studs on exterior walls especially under windows . I wonder if that 60 percent rule applys to redwood framing or unstamped lumber or if there are exceptions where it might not be allowed its quite old around 150 years old I think he said.
Also he says there is a beam on top of the wall and never clarified that
If it is possible to go 60% through two studs, then that is my preference. Holes would be 2 1/8". Will use the Simpson stud shoes. I could use an LVL stud to reinforce the existing stud to the left of the window if necessary. Don't think I would need anything with the stud under the window which already has a header. Only going 24" for trap arm. The top plate is at the roof line at 14' with balloon framing. It may be possible to go around the top plate, or I could drill through. Photo of top plate.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2527.jpg
    IMG_2527.jpg
    104.9 KB · Views: 128

Jeff H Young

In the Trades
Messages
8,954
Reaction score
2,235
Points
113
Location
92346
If it is possible to go 60% through two studs, then that is my preference. Holes would be 2 1/8". Will use the Simpson stud shoes. I could use an LVL stud to reinforce the existing stud to the left of the window if necessary. Don't think I would need anything with the stud under the window which already has a header. Only going 24" for trap arm. The top plate is at the roof line at 14' with balloon framing. It may be possible to go around the top plate, or I could drill through. Photo of top plate.
I agree the window opening is being carried by the kingstuds and header no real load under the window. I guess the 4x12 beam above the wall is flat so its easy to drill through so youve got a 2 inch plate and a 4 inch beam thickness to drill through? just be sure to keep those wood chips from jamming the bit inside your hole youll need an extention
 

WorthFlorida

Clinical Trail 5th session completed 4/24/24.
Messages
5,763
Solutions
1
Reaction score
998
Points
113
Location
Orlando, Florida
????????? Possible to drain straight down through the floor under the sink. Could go horizontal outside the wall a couple feet past the window, then back into the wall and vertically up.
A sink trap must be at the same floor level of the fixture. The vertical distance from the fixture outlet to the trap weir shall not exceed 24 inches. A vent will be needed before going vertical to the main stack.

 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks