Upon removal of my old toilet I noticed the flange was broken. I hired a plumber to replace. Once he got the old one off he noticed there was a piece of pvc with one end swiveled off to the side. Well, on said piece it was cracked so had to be replaced also. The plumber has replaced the part and now it goes straight down into the drain. My question is on if he did the work right. Attached you will see pics of what I'm posting about. The flange fits in the pvc part with room to spare but the entrance into the drain is smaller.
Hired plumber but doesn't seem right.
- Thread starter JuanC
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I have not seen that fitting before.
Most outlets on toilet bowls are about 2". You really don't need much more than that on the vertical.
The closet flange if it's glued, is an interference fit. It's snug to the point of not being able to be fully fitted in without solvent glue.
You can't have a loose fit on a toilet connection. That is one reason that wax is used often between the flange and the bowl. You need an air tight seal.
Are those two pieces supposed to glue together? Or is he figuring on some other method?
Most outlets on toilet bowls are about 2". You really don't need much more than that on the vertical.
The closet flange if it's glued, is an interference fit. It's snug to the point of not being able to be fully fitted in without solvent glue.
You can't have a loose fit on a toilet connection. That is one reason that wax is used often between the flange and the bowl. You need an air tight seal.
Are those two pieces supposed to glue together? Or is he figuring on some other method?
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He mentioned glueing the flange to the pvc already in the ground. When I put the flange into the pvc there is a lot of wiggle room. Not sure if he's doing everything right. He wanted to put anchors into the concrete and set the toilet while the fresh concrete was just poured. Told him to wait at least 2 weeks for it to cure. Not too sure about that guy.
I know when he put the fitting in it was not glued but rather hammered down in. Then when I asked if he was going to glue he couldnt remove the fitting. So he went ahead and poured cement around. He said it's not a big deal since there is no pressure just gravity with the flush.
Jadnashua
Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Terry already answered your question about the interference fit...it's typical that you cannot fully seat a fitting onto a pipe unless you've added the pvc cement which melts the plastic...allowing it to come together.
It doesn't hurt to insert the fasteners into the soft concrete...it will cure around them and probably be stronger than if you drilled a hole later. You do want to use one that won't corrode...brass or SS, though.
Most pros around here shy away from using a pvc flange that does not have a SS metal ring...it's all too easy to crack an all-plastic one.
It doesn't hurt to insert the fasteners into the soft concrete...it will cure around them and probably be stronger than if you drilled a hole later. You do want to use one that won't corrode...brass or SS, though.
Most pros around here shy away from using a pvc flange that does not have a SS metal ring...it's all too easy to crack an all-plastic one.
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