Freestanding tub installation

[Lemmy]

As noted in another thread, I paid some people to do some work and they did a less than stellar job, I made a separate thread since this is more concerned with the tub installation. I apologize if it would have been better to have them in the same thread.

We have a Mansfield AVA 5732

https://www.mansfieldplumbing.com/product-catalog/ava/

The installation document says the tub shell CANNOT rest on the floor. It is supposed to rest on the adjustable leveling legs. Also, it mentions using silicone sealant on the bottom of the tub to adhere it to the floor.

Here is the installation document:
https://www.mansfieldplumbing.com/w...04/Whitley-Collection-Freestanding-manual.pdf

This tub has the drain in the center and it is a rigid drain that goes straight down through the floor. I have seen some that use a flexible line to make installation a bit easier.

The guys that installed it didn't use the leveling legs at all. So the tub shell rests on the floor and of course the tub rocks a little. When they connected the drain to the trap in the crawlspace they glued it all so I will need to cut the drain line from below and remove the tub to adjust the leveling legs (need a final gap of at least 1/8" between the tub shell and the floor). Also as shown in the attached drawing, the tub isn't centered so I will need to make the hole in a floor for the drain just a bit larger to allow the tub to move the right. As it is, the drain line is hitting the edge of the hole that was cut for it.

My question is concerning the sealant on the bottom of the tub. Once I get the legs adjusted properly, I don't see how I could get sealant on the bottom of the tub then get it flipped over and installed on the floor without making a mess on he floor with the sealant. Since it is in an alcove I can't easily have it lifted up on each and and then sit it straight down in to place. I am not sure if sealing it to the floor is to keep the tub from moving or to keep water from getting under the tub. I thought about installing the tub then running a bead of silicone caulk around the base, but the back and sides might be a bit difficult to reach. What is typically done for a freestanding tub in an alcove? Thanks.

 

[Kreemoweet]

Terrible install instructions - no illustration at all of those mysterious "leveling legs" -
probably impossible to install as it is written - seems self-contradictory. At first I thought
the installers you mention were buffoons, but now I kinda sympathize. I can not see how
any method of applying sealant to bottom of tub will not look terrible, but at least the
back half of the tub will not be visible from any normal perspective ...

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Lemmy]

Terrible install instructions - no illustration at all of those mysterious "leveling legs" -
probably impossible to install as it is written - seems self-contradictory. At first I thought
the installers you mention were buffoons, but now I kinda sympathize. I can not see how
any method of applying sealant to bottom of tub will not look terrible, but at least the
back half of the tub will not be visible from any normal perspective ...

Well they were buffoons, but yeah those instructions aren't very clear at all.

 

[Jeff Elkins]

Did you ever solve this one? In the process of installing a freestanding tub in a small bathroom - 3" of clearance on the back wall, and approximately 5" on either end, so essentially an alcove! On a level, but newly tiled floor - turns out there's a slight difference in height between the 12" tiles and the 18" tiles.

Had to track down the manual from another soaking tub to understand what to do with the feet, as the instructions that came with this Swiss Madison tub were also unclear (a one-pager). My son and I can drop the tub by holding the ends while my spouse tightens the drop-tub into the trap drain (drain is centered in the floor). So my plan was to apply the silicone sealant to the underside of the skirt - I have about a 2.5" flat all the way around. I've also seen some DIY-ers add a large drop to each of the feet, too (the whole tub slipped on the floor when I dry fit it, so I'm liking this idea).

Anyway - how did you finish that part of the install?

Jeff, about 90 minutes east of you

 

[Lemmy]

I just recently went into the crawlspace and cut the drain and flipped the tub over. Since the lousy installers allowed the tile to be installed before they cut the hole in the floor, the hole was only a little bigger than the 1.5" PVC drain and wasn't centered (they used a diamond hole saw blade). The porcelain tile was really difficult to grind away to make the hole bigger, but I was able to do so with 45 minutes and a couple of rotozip tile bits. I then put tape on the tub ends and the wall and centered the tub..then marked the tape with a pencil mark so I can quickly get it back in the proper place when I flip it over. Then I plan on flipping the tub over, putting silicone on the 4 leveling legs then flipping it back over and moving it the inch or two that will be needed to get it in place. I realize not much silicone will be left on the legs, but it is the only idea I have come up with. Then there will be about 1/8" gap between the tub and the floor and I think I will put some white silicone caulk all the way around to prevent water from getting under the tub. This should also help give it a bit more rigidity. It is just not possible for me to put the sealant all the way around the bottom of the tub and then flip it over and scoot it in to place. It would make a mess.

I saw a post some place where an installer said he puts the tub in place, then marks the floor with a pencil. Then he moves the tub and puts 4 blocks of wood screwed in to the floor at the proper distance inboard of the pencil mark. Then when the tub is flipped over it can't move because of the wood blocks it sits down over. I just think this would be too difficult to get correct. I think i could get it close, but since the tub is 1/8" off of the floor and the area where it goes to from the side to the bottom of the tub is rounded, it is difficult to get an accurate mark on the floor representing the outside edge of the tub. But, I am still considering this. The tub might still be able to move 1/3" from one side to the other even if the silicone failed, but at least it would prevent the drain line from being damaged.

90 minutes east? You must be right on the state line.