(rebuild did not fix) Fleck 5600 not regen-ing

[The harrymanimus]

Hi,

System has been working well for years. I noticed my water seeming a bit hard the past 2 days. Took the cover off today, and things look off to me. Did not regen last night, so I think I have a problem. Thoughts? Is the mechanical head bad? Can I try a manual regen (but it's already on regen looks like)

 

[Bannerman]

Is the timer motor on the backside excessively hot?

How difficult is it to turn the manual control valve handle to advance to the next Regen cycle phase?

The seals on the 5600 can swell after some time, causing the piston to bind. In that model, the timer motor is utilized as the drive motor for the piston so when the piston is stuck, the motor will become excessively hot and turning the handle will be extremely stiff. In that situation, the seals, spacers, O rings and brine valve should be replaced, which may also require a new piston if any of the piston's Teflon coating is scratched or has flaked off.


If the motor is cold, that would be an indicator that the timer motor is not being powered or, the motor is defective.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[The harrymanimus]

So the timer is warm, and the timer is advancing time correctly. I don't know about excessively hot. If I use the heat sensor laser device, what should it read? I'm going to guess by touch it's maybe 120°

For some history, I did a rebuild on this maybe about 7 years ago. And the part that looks like a spark plug was replaced maybe 3 years ago.

If I start turning The knob to test things out, where should I leave it when I'm done testing it? Can I manually regen it with the knob? Leave it on some setting for 2 hours then manually turn it back to in-service?

 

[The harrymanimus]

I turned the knob. It was quite hard to turn. I figured I'd just go around and back to "service". I can't get it past a certain point, and sound's like water is running through. Not sure what to do so I turned the bypass lever, sound of water running through stopped, mostly, there is a very slight hiss noise.

What should I do now? Ok to keep bypass off? Unsure if there is any built up pressure that should be released somewhere.

Based on description from Bannerman above, sounds like the seals have swollen? And I need another rebuild? That sound about right for 7 years since last rebuild?
---------
New info:
* Went back out to check and the wheel is turning, it's now on "Rinse" setting.
* Now back to In Service, I turned off the bypass.

Given info provided, I can manually turn the dial thru the process to get soft water until I can do a rebuild? (assuming that's what is needed).

 

[Reach4]

It might be time to get a valve that does "demand" softening. I suspect a 5600SXT demand version would be pretty much straight forward replacement. You would want to get the right injector to match your tank. If you say what diameter tank you have, I could recommend an injector. Negotiating what injector you get is much easier before the order. If you think it is time to change the resin anyway, consider a whole new softener with resin. The new softener could use the Fleck 5800 SXT or the 5600SXT valve.

 

[The harrymanimus]

I guess I'd consider it if there are a lot of pro's to a valve of that type. Looks to me about $400, probably a bigger job? But it might save me money and grief in the future? I think my resin is fine.

4 inch diameter at the neck measured with string and a calculator
9.25 on the body

Until I sort this out, think it's ok for me to advance things manually to keep my water soft?

 

[Reach4]

Yes. The service manual even labels the knob as "Manual Regeneration Knob".
I suggest 5 minutes of backwash, maybe 60 minutes of brine+rinse, 4 minutes of rapid rinse, settle rinse... not sure... Brine refill... assuming the BLFC is 0.5 gpm, if you want 6 lbs/cuft of resin, then 4 minutes for each cuft of resin.

Then In Serv.

Valve position dial, 14176 - standard Fleck 5600-3414176

www.softenerparts.com

 

[The harrymanimus]

Thanks so much for that information on the stages.

So the on demand is a good bit better than the metered valve? I'm better off doing that than a rebuild?

 

[Bannerman]

might be time to get a valve that does "demand" softening. I

In the photo posted, appears to me to be a Fleck 5600 Econominder (aka: metered, demand) valve.

The salt dose dial is located on the backside.


Fleck 5600 Econominder Salt Setting

 

[The harrymanimus]

It is metered I believe, I guess that is the same thing as demand. Okay so if I have the proper one, I guess I need to do another rebuild, and that will fix the stuck timer motor because it will be easier to turn? The rebuild went pretty smooth before and I still have all the instructions on how to do that from the thread in 2017.

I started getting fizzy water out of my faucet tonight, is this likely because I did the test manual turning of the dial and something partially happened. Probably when I turned the valve off on the rinse.

 

[The harrymanimus]

Once I started the regen manually, the timer completed the entire cycle by itself, didn't need to help it along any. I've ordered a rebuild kit.

 

[Reach4]

Do you use any lube etc? Consider Dow/Dupont/Molykote No.7 Release Compound. A 5.3 ounce tube is a lifetime supply.

A thin coat on to the seal and piston contact points. Plus maybe consider it for other sliding surfaces too. Also good for lubricating o-rings etc. Molykote 111 is good for the non-sliding o-rings etc, but the release compound can do that job too.

The o-rings would include any o-rings on a cartridge filter when you change cartridges. I wear nitrile gloves when applying to make hand cleaning easy.

 

[The harrymanimus]

I had an old tube of the Danco food grade silicon stuff from 7 years ago, but ordered a new one.

 

[The harrymanimus]

Knob did not turn at all before rebuild (new behavior) when trying to depressurize per instructions (just turned off water instead). Didn't want to force it to turn.

Knob does not turn after rebuild. I did check that the Teflon coated piston would move up and down the rings before re-assembly.

So I inspected the gears, and one gear looks out of place, it's at an angle to the middle gear (red arrow in pic). But I can't tell for sure what is bound up just by looking.

Also I'll note that before I did this, I noticed as I was hanging out in the garage, an occasional pop, maybe like a plastic gear slipping.

Should I just buy a new head for this thing?



https://aquascience.net/fleck-5600-power-head-meter-std-econominder?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5cOwBhCiARIsAJ5njuZdMr0Uvb-gXWhKRi-ZGVHDUzTxdT_RbqeiTzjX-4KNSiwarZ4eFc0aAl9nEALw_wcB

 

[The harrymanimus]

Ok, figured I'd just take it apart. Found video on the assembly of the main dial, used a box to catch spring bearings.

Took the brine gear off, it was quite stuck, hard to get off. Main dial still would not turn. Took the main dial apart. Put the main dial back together and it turns, no issues! Have no idea what was bound up.

Put brine gear on, it turns with the main dial.

Turned it some got stuck on settle/rinse and won't go past that. Futzed with it, got it turning, got stuck on Rinse.

Figured out that the brine gear slots into the gap on the main dial gear. Which I think was the problem when the gears got messed up.

So I think I might be ready to put it back on, hopefully.

 

[The harrymanimus]

After getting it back together, trying to set it up again, I notice that the clear program wheel with the numbers moves freely. I believe it used to have to be pulled out before it would move. Is this a problem?

Found the part:
Link

Softenerparts.com support seems to think I need that part, so just ordered it.