Fitting for flex connection to pump?

[Pineapple12]

I'm continuing to formulate a plan for updating my well water system. Looking a little closer, I realized that the fitting that connects the flexible line from the pump to the check valve (I'm assuming that's what it is) is VERY rusted. I feel like I should address this soon before it becomes a big problem. Is this typically how pumps are connected? Is there a standard size barb fitting I would need? I think the check valve threads are 1". The old one looks like it was galvanized, as does the nipple on the other side of the check valve.

The rest looks "ok", the copper is turning green but the integrity seems fine. It's mostly the galvanized fittings that have me concerned.

Thanks!

 

[Ryan Symons]

Yes check valve is 1". You need a 1" NPT x barbed fitting. (The barb is also 1") they make them in brass, stainless and plastic.

 

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[Reach4]

Assuming that black pipe is delivering water from a submersible pump,

1. the valve between the pump and the pressure switch should be removed. If that were closed, it would probably burn up the pump.
2. Usually you don't want a check valve topside. It can be a workaround, but usually you only want a check valve, plus maybe a redundant check valve, at the pump. Sometimes you can remove the innards from a check valve, and the housing will serve as a pipe.

 

[Valveman]

Since your updating, now would be a good time to pull all that stuff out and replace it with a PK1A. Looks like you have a line going outside before the tank and filters? The Cycle Stop Valve would keep you pump from cycling for outside uses and supply strong constant pressure to the filters and showers past that. Just put in a new 1" brass or stainless barb fitting and attach to the PK1A kit. Then tee the two copper lines back in afterwards. You may want to mount the much smaller tank up on the wall and use a few elbows to clear up the floor space.

 

[Pineapple12]

Since your updating, now would be a good time to pull all that stuff out and replace it with a PK1A.

Thanks for the recommendation. I have looked into it. It might be an option eventually, but I have a lot I want to tackle before getting to that point. My pump is old.. probably mid '80s. The giant pressure tank is old too. But so far.. they're all still working.

You're right, those 1" lines do go outside to what used to be an irrigation system. The sprinkler heads have long since been knocked off and the system is pretty much abandoned in place! The most water we use is for showers.. where I'd estimate the pump cycles once or twice. I can detect a slight change in pressure when this happens. If I understand it right, the PK1A turns on the pump every time a tap opens. I'm sure every case is different, but in my house I would think that would result in more on/off cycles. I'd need to do a study to be sure, but that's my gut feeling.

If I ever did go that route, how would I size the PK1A? I found a nameplate for a pump on top of the disconnect switch. It says:

Myers SG72, Code:10, HP: 3/4, 230V, single phase, RPM: 3450

However, I know for a fact that our original pump got taken out by lightening in the mid 80's. It was replaced. Since there is no date code on this nameplate, I can't tell if it's off the original or the replacement. Either way, i guess they would have had similar specs.

 

[Valveman]

With a 3/4HP pump all you need is the PK1A with the 4.5 gallon size tank. With the PK1A and little tank the pump only cycles once per shower, even if the shower last a month. Your shower pressure is dropping now, you just never had strong constant pressure to compare it to.