Down Light's keep going out

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JohnfrWhipple

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Hey Vegas.

My kitchen has about 12 down lights. All take Par 20 Halogen bulbs. In my daughter's bedroom above the kitchen Island I have four monkey rings. My girls and their friends no matter how hard I try continue to stop it land flips and such hard. The impact and vibration is unscrewing the lights. I swear on day they are coming through the ceiling...

Sometimes blowing the bulbs.

I'm getting sick of the lights going out - taking the monkey rings down is not an option.

Any tricks or specific brands of light bulb I should try. Are any Par20 bulbs designed for vibration?
 

Vegas_sparky

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I agree with Don. LEDs are the only way to go. I can't think of a circumstance where they aren't the superior alternative, except for an easy bake oven.

Here's a very good LED lamp, and 5000k will be very white light, suitable for working on plans and homework at the island. Good LEDs aren't cheap, but have a very good ROI in areas of high usage. I've gone all LED at the UT house, and that saves a minimum of $30/month on the power bill for a 4K sq/ft home. Changing out all your general task lighting lamps(kitch/baths/closets/ family rms)will give you the greatest returns.

Feit PAR20/5K/LEDG5 LED Dimmable PAR20 5K Reflector GEN5
 
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hj

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IF the bulbs were "burning out" because of the vibration then a "vibration proof" bulb would help, but your bulbs are "unscrewing" meaning you may need a lighter bulb to reduce the momentum when it shakes.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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They're unscrewing because John's installing them like a girl. Use your man hands man. LOL

Your such a Douche Bag.... LOL

They are tight.

Today at soccer one of the dad's asked my what the trick was for dropping the tent. You have to push in this little button to let the tent top slide down the leg. He tried on his leg while I did two (my side and another dad's). He still did not get his side done.

I told him the trick was to take off his panties first! LOL
 

JohnfrWhipple

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LED bulbs.

OK.

Then I need to buy 16 $&&ing LED bulbs. That is going to cost me a fortune.

I better do a test. Try one and see how it holds up.

Thanks Vegas.
 

Vegas_sparky

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There's definitely an upfront cost, but they do pay for themselves. You can calculate a rough estimate for ROI knowing total number of lamps to be changed, new lamp wattage(7-12w depending on lamp), old lamp wattage, average on time per day, and kW/h rate. I bet those kitchen and island lights are left on more than you'd expect. 16 incandescents are burning a lot of power.

I'd test one if I were you, just to make sure you like the color of the particular light you choose. 5000k will be on the whiter(cool) side, while most are used to a warm white color(3000k-4000k). You can also go with a dimmer on the 5000ks which will pull down the total light output to soften them up.
 
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DonL

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Money should not be a problem for John.

Do I sense a Tight Ass here ? Glad he has me blocked, but feel free to tell what I said.

The LED will maybe never need to be replaced again if you buy good ones.


Cree gets my Vote. Made in USA, so Far.
 
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Vegas_sparky

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I'm a CREE fan also, when they're available. I am expecting a 126w LED light bar in the mail today. Its going to go on the front of my wife's car for backwoods night driving. These things are starting to come in at realistic price points.
 

JohnfrWhipple

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Vegas.

This one?

cree-led-bulb-back_69b1fb98-ffd6-49b3-bbff-44780a59e5a1_1024x1024.jpg


My Lights now are Par 20's. They look more like this LED build.

PAR20W_WW2.jpg

http://www.myledlight.com/par20_led_light_bulb_36_leds.aspx

These are whats i there now.

2004254_L.jpg
 

Vegas_sparky

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That first one you show is some kind of type A looking lamp, John. I threw in a link to a good quality lamp in my first reply.

Here's something else that'll help with your shower LED installs. My LED light bar showed up, and I always add a little extra protection on the surfaces that get pounded with water the hardest. Flowable silicone is great for sealing tight joints, where its difficult to use the typical type. I'll seal a downward edge, let gravity do its thing for an hour, rotate 90°, and repeat until its bulletproof around the face. Tonight I'll test the output of this bar against the existing lighting on my truck(180W HID + 265W dedicated halogen long range driving lights).
 

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JohnfrWhipple

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Vegas my Shower lighting systems don't get wet. They are outside the water and vapour proofing measures.

My last client is a auto mechanic and works here for Ford. He also travels with his boss as part of a pit crew for NASCAR. He was telling me about waterproof heat shrink. Still have not got any samples of this and keep trig to find it.

Have you use any waterproof heat shrink before?
 

Vegas_sparky

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I have. Heat shrink and various sealents are my approach to prepping strip LEDs. No heat shrink alone will fill the void between loose conductors.
 

JWelectric

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Hey Vegas.

My kitchen has about 12 down lights. All take Par 20 Halogen bulbs. In my daughter's bedroom above the kitchen Island I have four monkey rings. My girls and their friends no matter how hard I try continue to stop it land flips and such hard. The impact and vibration is unscrewing the lights. I swear on day they are coming through the ceiling...

Sometimes blowing the bulbs.

I'm getting sick of the lights going out - taking the monkey rings down is not an option.

Any tricks or specific brands of light bulb I should try. Are any Par20 bulbs designed for vibration?
If taking down the rings is not an option then maybe getting rid of the kids would work. I think I would consider one or the other before I found one of the kids in the kitchen after the floor gave away
 

JohnfrWhipple

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If taking down the rings is not an option then maybe getting rid of the kids would work. I think I would consider one or the other before I found one of the kids in the kitchen after the floor gave away


LOL - I'll talk to my wife. The little one is quite annoying at times! lol
 

Koa

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Those Cree bulbs are designed to light more sideways as opposed to up or down depending how you mount them. There's a dark spot on top the bulb. You would need LED floods. If you replace your halogens with an LED with built in trim rings you would only be screwing in the connector to the bulb not the bulb. You could pinch the socket a little (which might also work for your halogens) and pre twist the wires so there's tension on the connector after you screw it in. You tend to lose some of the dimming range with LEDs and some bulbs are not instant on which I find annoying. Also there is more glare with LED floods bare bulbs.

Maybe some mats or futons on the floor of your girl's room might help.
 
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