Convertible Jet Pump Questions

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Blueoval78

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Hello everyone, I am fed up with low pressure in my morning shower and want to change my pump settings. I currently have a Wayne 1/2hp convertible jet pump that is drawing from a 45 ft deep well. It is factory set for 30/50 and does not have an adjustable pressure switch. The pressure switch is threaded directly into the pump casing. The pump is attached to a 20 gallon draw down tank. I found that you can purchase adjustable pressure switches so my questions are:
1. Can I replace the factory pressure switch with a Square D adjustable version?
2. Would a 1/2hp pump be able to build 40/60?
3. I know I would have to empty the pressure tank to relieve pressure to change the switch but would removing the current one make the pump lose prime as well?
4. The house was built in 1977 and has a mixture of pex and copper piping. Is there risk of pipes leaking if I go to 60psi?
 

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You can't turn the pressure switch up if the pump will not build more pressure. The Specs on that pump SUCK! You cannot even find the max pressure it will build. However, it comes with a 30/50 switch because it probably can't even make 60 PSI. The deeper the water in the well the less pressure it can make. A submersible will give you all the pressure you want. But you need a high pressure jet pump like a Gould J5Sh or a J15S if you want to make more pressure with a jet pump. If the water in the well is not too deep either of those pumps will work with up to a 50/70 switch. However, even with a 50/70 switch the pressure is sometimes at 50 and sometimes at 70. Adding a Cycle Stop Valve will deliver a strong constant 60 PSI while using water. Constant 60 PSI pressure is much stronger in the shower than when the pump is continually cycling one and off between 50 and 70.

No you shouldn't lose prime, and house plumbing should be good to at least 80 PSI.
 

Blueoval78

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You can't turn the pressure switch up if the pump will not build more pressure. The Specs on that pump SUCK! You cannot even find the max pressure it will build. However, it comes with a 30/50 switch because it probably can't even make 60 PSI. The deeper the water in the well the less pressure it can make. A submersible will give you all the pressure you want. But you need a high pressure jet pump like a Gould J5Sh or a J15S if you want to make more pressure with a jet pump. If the water in the well is not too deep either of those pumps will work with up to a 50/70 switch. However, even with a 50/70 switch the pressure is sometimes at 50 and sometimes at 70. Adding a Cycle Stop Valve will deliver a strong constant 60 PSI while using water. Constant 60 PSI pressure is much stronger in the shower than when the pump is continually cycling one and off between 50 and 70.

No you shouldn't lose prime, and house plumbing should be good to at least 80 PSI.

Thanks! I was also considering purchasing a cycle stop valve to stop the pressure swing. I did look at a better jet pump but was worried about pumping too fast from my well and making it go dry. My well records show a 4.5GPM flow and I see the Gould’s has over 10GPM’s. If I upgraded my pump, would I need to change the foot valve unit?
 

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If you are using the convertible as a deep well jet pump, then yes you will need to change the ejector at the bottom as well, as it needs to match the pump. The J5SH and J15S I mentioned are shallow well only, and changing the foot valve would not be needed.

However, if you are using the pump as a deep well set up the ejector down the well should be able to give you more pressure than when running that pump as a shallow well pump. See if you can find any info on the pressure that pump will build when using the down hole ejector? You maybe able to just turn the pressure switch up and add a CSV.
 

Blueoval78

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If you are using the convertible as a deep well jet pump, then yes you will need to change the ejector at the bottom as well, as it needs to match the pump. The J5SH and J15S I mentioned are shallow well only, and changing the foot valve would not be needed.

However, if you are using the pump as a deep well set up the ejector down the well should be able to give you more pressure than when running that pump as a shallow well pump. See if you can find any info on the pressure that pump will build when using the down hole ejector? You maybe able to just turn the pressure switch up and add a CSV.

Is there risk of over sizing a pump? Meaning, could I draw too fast and lose prime?
 

Blueoval78

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Also, am I correct in assuming that the pressure and flow in the house is mainly affected by the pressure tank and pipes? Meaning, while the pump is not running and the water is coming from the pressure tank only (dropping from 50 to 30psi) the size and GPM of the pump would not have any impact, correct? In my mind, the pump only affects how fast the pressure tank rebuilds to 50psi, correct?
 

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Also, am I correct in assuming that the pressure and flow in the house is mainly affected by the pressure tank and pipes? Meaning, while the pump is not running and the water is coming from the pressure tank only (dropping from 50 to 30psi) the size and GPM of the pump would not have any impact, correct? In my mind, the pump only affects how fast the pressure tank rebuilds to 50psi, correct?
You are sorta correct, but you should be thinking of it differently. When you use water, the pump has to keep up. So the pump needs to produce at least 30 psi when you are using water at your high rate.

Should we presume you have a 2 inch ID well?
 

Blueoval78

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I'm not sure how big my well casing is but I do know it's got the 2 pipes from the jet pump going in there with lots of room around them. No matter which faucet I use - even at full flow - the pump builds to 50psi no problem. I suspect I have another issue in my piping somewhere because I can't use 2 fixtures at once in my house; one of them will stop flowing while the other will have reduced flow. For example, if we have the shower going and someone turns on the kitchen faucet, the shower stops entirely.
 

Reach4

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What is the OD?

If you could put a submersible pump in there, you would get a lot more drama-free water pressure.

Quiet too.
 

Blueoval78

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That is definitely a future project; not a big fan of the jet pump. I asked earlier though, if my well record shows recommended pump rate "4.5GPM" and I put a high flow pump in there, is there risk of pumping water faster than the casing could refill? Reason I ask is every "good quality, non-big-box-store" pump I look at has flow rates over 10GPM at 40ft. My Home Depot Wayne pump is obviously a cheap pump and is only hitting about 4GPM at 40 feet. So far I haven't had a problem with losing prime - meaning the water in the well has never dropped below the injector/foot valve
 

Reach4

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Just because you have more pressure, you don't have to use more water.

If your well casing is 4 inch steel, you would do well to consider a "3 inch" (2.9 inch) Grundfos SQ pump. They have some built-in protection for if you run dry -- the pump will shut itself down for a while. 4 inch PVC is smoother, and can use a "4 inch" pump or a 3 inch.

The well will hold some amount of water, and the well replenishes at some rate.
 

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Even though your well only makes 4.5 GPM, there should be enough stored water in the well to let you run say 10 GPM for a short time. You would have to time it to see, but usually you can run up to 10 GPM for 20 minutes or so, which will handle the peak demands. Even when using a larger 10 GPM pump, the well is only being depleted by the amount you are using. So when running water for long periods of time, just don't use more than 4.5 GPM. With a CSV the pump would then only be pumping 4.5 GPM, and you won't pump the well dry. Even without a CSV the pump will be cycling on and off pumping 10 GPM into the pressure tank, then be off for more than half the time, so it is only drawing 4.5 GPM from the well.

With a two pipe jet pump you should be able to turn the pressure switch up to 40/60 if you want. If it doesn't build to 60 and shut off, turn it back down to 30/50.
 
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