Brucebrown2
New Member
I have a bad Cu301 controller that controlled my 22SQE-190 pump. I have been running the pump for a couple of years without the CU301 controller, but I'm having a problem with the torque from the start-up tearing the pipe apart close to the pump. Any solutions? With the 301 controller, it didn't start at full throttle but now using the standard pressure switch you can see the pipe jerk each time it turns on. I guess it is starting at full speed? I am looking at theA bad check valve should have nothing to do with a pump running all the time. A bad check valve will cause the pump to come right back on and it has shut off, but won't keep it from shutting off.
That is a very common problem with the SQE/CU301 type system. They use the same wires the power goes down to the motor to send a radio signal back up to the controller. It is constantly losing the radio connection to the controller. Generation 1,2,3,4 all moved up the number of signal loss events before it even shows a fault. I think the new generation 8 or 9 versions now let it cycle 1000 times like a regular pressure switch before they even show a fault for loss of signal connection.
Those SQE pumps will work fine without the CU301 controller. We just use a Cycle Stop Valve to make them deliver constant pressure and replace the CU301 with a normal 40/60 pressure switch. Like in upper drawing of this link.
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/csv-vs-vfd_1.html
CS1PH1-2HP230V. CYCLE SENSOR w/ NEMA ENCLOSURE and the
CSV1A CYCLE STOP VALVE.
I have a unique system. It was already installed when I purchased the home. I have a three-foot diameter bored well approx. 300ft. from the home. 85 ft. deep with the water level about 10-15 ft below the top of the well. Plenty of water. The well is also about 45 ft. below the grade of the home. 1-1/2 pipe from the pump to the home. The controls are located uphill close to the house I took out the black pipe and installed sch. 40 PVC. I am about to install sch. 80 PVC. ?? Any suggestions would be appreciated.