Constant cut in/cut out. Adust has no affect.

[Dropper]

This is a 4" 3/4 horse above ground well, 2 to 3 years old with bladder tank a few years older than pump.

When I run my water at a low volume or barely turned on, the pump cuts in and out about every 5 seconds and neither of the two adjustments seems to change that unless I tighten down so far on the adjustment, it never turns off.

When I turn the water on most or all the way, it runs constantly.

Any ideas?

 

[LLigetfa]

You bladder tank is too small or is waterlogged. A properly designed system should run the pump for a minute to fill the tank.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Dropper]

It's been working fine for a few years now so, tank is small but fine, however, waterlogged had crossed my mind.

Does WL'd mean the bladder has disintegrated and if so, how do I test for that? See if water comes out the air valve?

And if it has disintegrated, is there anyway to set this up to run without the bladder? Like just set it to run constantly for the most part and if that is possible, will it cause my pump to wear out "much" or just a "bit" faster?

I know there are bladder-less tanks so, even though it may not be the best set up, is it doable with this tank? Drawbacks?

 

[Valveman]

Cycling every minute or so for a few years kept bending the bladder back and forth until it broke. Now the tank is waterlogged and cycling the pump every 5 seconds. Cycling every minute will destroy your pump as well as the tank. Cycling every 5 seconds will destroy the pump very quickly. If it is for irrigation only, using timers, you can do without a pressure tank. If the water goes to the house as well, you must have a pressure tank. Tanks without bladders will waterlog quicker and require more maintenance than a bladder tank.

If you use a Cycle Stop Valve to stop the cycling you only need a 4.5 gallon size bladder tank, plus all your cycling problems and consequent pump and tank failures will go away.

 

[Dropper]

OK, good stuff and thanks...just got in from testing and got water out the air valve so busted bladder for sure...right? No replacing the Bladder? right?

Will look into that valve as it goes to my home but it's just me and if we can possibly find a way to get by with it as it is, it would be great but for now I will assume I at least have to get the STV and the 4.5 tank.

 

[Dropper]

I should ask...Not sure what it was cycling at before but is every minute normal? If not what is normal for this small system?

 

[Dropper]

Thanks to both of you. Unlike my last issue here, at least this one was a quick and correct diagnosis.

I'll decide what to do about it with either the mentioned fix or put it off (it's not really about money, I just have my reasons) or just turn it on full blast when I need it so it runs constantly , combined with maybe shutting it down at the very easily assessable fuse box at times.

 

[Reach4]

You can postpone replacing the tank by adding air periodically. How often? I am not sure. Few days?

Some tanks do indeed have a replaceable bladder. The better tanks use a diaphragm rather than a bladder.