Cast iron flange/waste line problem

[SJP]

In the process of remodeling a bathroom I pulled up the toilet and old glass mosaic tile floor to find this:

The waste line is cast iron and is off-center to the flange. It seems that the line was originally plumbed off-center to the toilet niche when the house was built 58 years ago, and someone compensated by somehow installing the flange in the center of the space. This might explain why we’ve occasionally had leakage issues from under the toilet over the years.

As part of this remodel I cut the slab (only 2” thick!) in the adjacent shower and moved the shower drain to center in its space. That was all ABS, so it was fairly straightforward. The shower pan was redone with Schluter and is now thoroughly dialed-in with perfect slope, new tile and grout. I’m thinking this needs a similar treatment: cut slab, tear out, re-plumb waste line with a new flange to the actual center of the space. Wife is hoping for a solution that will not involve that kind of time and trouble. I’d like to share her optimism on this, but I fear the worst. Thoughts?

 

[Reach4]

Are you saying that you want your closet flange to be where the current cast iron flange is, but you want to connect to that drain line without leaking?

If you pull that black ring, you could probably see better what is going on.

What ID is that pipe? How far off center from the pipe do you want the closet flange to be?

A magnet could confirm that what you think is cast iron is not lead.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[SJP]

Yes, I’d like to return the toilet to its original position, with a clean, leak-free connection to the waste line, where the current flange sits. The waste line is 2” off-center. The pipe (which measures 3 1/2 ID—with obvious build-up) holds a magnet all the way up to the top. Here’s an updated photo with remains of the wax ring completely removed:

 

[SJP]

Here is the image:

 

[Jeff H Young]

if you can clean that inside of pipe real good you might be able to use an inside ring like the "Twist and set"

 

[wwhitney]

Jeff, I think he wants the toilet to stay in the previous location, with a better connection to the existing pipe than the flange half dead-ending into the concrete.

The first step is to remove the closet flange and clean out any loose debris and inspect the lower section of pipe. If it is in good enough condition to continue using, you could investigate using an offset flange. That would require a bit of concrete breaking (e.g. any concrete over the pipe, and some alongside the pipe to make clearance for a no-hub or shielded banded coupling or a compression end flange) and patching (to support the new flange and any finish floor outside the toilet footprint). I believe a 2" offset is achievable, 1-1/2" definitely is (which would move your toilet 1/2" from previous).

If the lower section of pipe is quite corroded, it would make sense to break up more concrete and pipe until you get to sound pipe, then build back to your desired flange location without resorting to an offset flange.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Jeff H Young]

Scratch my idea I was thinking original location was where the closet bend was .
Its possible to MacGyver something an ABS offset closet ring, caulked epoxied inside that bend you could even glue a short piece in the bottom of the offset bend then glue a coupling on and get more hub down inside the cast. this is a bit scabby but I think you could get decent results possibly. something like Wayne suggest another way. then there is the extreme bust everything out and get rid of all that old stuff under your slab if its near an outside wall this might be relatively easy and last a lifetime

 

[Reach4]

The pipe (which measures 3 1/2 ID—with obvious build-up)

Awkward size. If it were really a 4 inch ID with a thick layer of buildup, then maybe a
Push-tite 889 would be worth considering. Only 1.5 inches of offset, but that might be enough.

https://www.siouxchief.com/docs/def...s---gasketed-offset-closet-flange---fullflush

 

[Jeff H Young]

Just checking SLP, Which fix have you tried on this ? Like Reach 4 says ID seems undersize but might have 1/4 inch of crud on each side bringing size down a half inch but sounds looks like standard 4 inch from my kitchen table.

 

[Sylvan]

Buy a cast iron Inside calk drain and use Oakum and molten lead



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