Can I Still Use This Fitting?

[DIYer101]

Stupid question probably, but can I still use this male adapter? You can see (hopefully) how the threads towards the bottom are "imperfect" from the previous fitting that was on it. I don't know if this is:

1. Definitely going to leak and spew water at a high rate
   
2. Best to replace, but there's a decent chance you'd get away with it (and the leak would be a slow one), or
3. No problem, just use plenty of tape

It's in the basement, where I'd hate to have a leak. I'm definitely not going to swap out the fitting myself - I'm not comfortable un-sweating the connection with all the other connections (not to mention the wall) so close to each other. I might be being too timid, but I've never used a torch, so it'll be another call to the plumber if this needs replaced.

Thank you as always.

 

[Terry]

What is threading on there?
It either works or it doesn't. You find out quick enough. It also doesn't take much to heat that, slide it off and solder on a new one.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Widgit Maker]

Get a 1/2" galvanized iron pipe cap, use pipe dope and screw it on. It will seal.
I am assuming you just want to cap this line off.

 

[DIYer101]

Thanks guys.

What is threading on there?

I was planning to put a brass reducing coupler on there, then a male Sharkbite adapter which goes to Pex piping - out to the sprinkler system.

It also doesn't take much to heat that

I've (obviously) never done that, but I was concerned that there's only about 5/8" of pipe between the two connections. If I heat the bad one, is there much risk of messing up the other connection (the next one over to the left, which I'd like to keep). I'm certainly willing to try, if you need to put the flame closer than I think to melt the solder.

 

[Widgit Maker]

There are Sharkbite couplings for that.

 

[Dj2]

Get a 1/2" galvanized iron pipe cap, use pipe dope and screw it on. It will seal.
I am assuming you just want to cap this line off.

I wouldn't attach anything galvanized on copper.

 

[Dj2]

Thanks guys.


I was planning to put a brass reducing coupler on there, then a male Sharkbite adapter which goes to Pex piping - out to the sprinkler system.


I've (obviously) never done that, but I was concerned that there's only about 5/8" of pipe between the two connections. If I heat the bad one, is there much risk of messing up the other connection (the next one over to the left, which I'd like to keep). I'm certainly willing to try, if you need to put the flame closer than I think to melt the solder.

Chances are that the second connection will be OK, if you do everything correctly, but you can also wrap the second connector to the left with a wet towel while you heat up the one you want to replace. Of course make sure that the towel is away from the flame.

Not sure? get somebody qualified to do it for you - money well spent.

 

[DIYer101]

Thanks dj2 - all good to know. I've got no problem having a pro do the final piece if it means avoiding a disaster.

 

[DIYer101]

OK, so I gave it a shot and there's a tiny leak (took 30 minutes to actually drip) going from the copper to brass. I'll try tightening it a bit more and get a pro if that doesn't work. Now I have 2 more questions:
1. Is it OK to have the ball valve only open part-way like that? I have no idea why he didn't use more pipe.


Speaking of a slow leak, while going over everything I found this green stuff which I rubbed and found is a little damp. So there's an even slower leak there.


2. How bad are those types of leaks? All of the water probably evaporates, but does that type of leak eventually grow and have the potential to spew by the gallon someday when I go out of town?

Thanks again.

 

[Widgit Maker]

If tightening the brass fitting does not stop the leak I would remove it, remove the Teflon tape, coat threads with pipe dope (pipe thread compound) and reassemble.

 

[DIYer101]

Thanks Widgit Maker!

 

[Poutine]

You can remove the yellow handle and shortened with an hacksaw so it will fit. Use both pipe dope and Teflon, doesn't matter which order . the Green stuff is oxidation, it's typical, you can polish with some Emery cloth if you like to make the copper shinny. If the packing nut is not the source of the leak try putting the gate valve exactly how it was open before if you did played with it.