Can I replace galvanized drop pipe in 2" well with black poly?

[Terry Coen]

Hello all, earlier this week I learned that I had a 2" well casing with an adapter for a dual-line jet pump. I have pulled the galvanized drop pipe and have ordered a new casing adapter kit (Flotec FP 4840), along with a new pump (Flotec 4332) . My question is can I replace all of the existing galvanized pipe (except the well casing) with black poly rather than using new galvanized pipe? I would prefer to use black poly for the down pipe and the dual-line run into the pump in the house. Any thoughts? Is there something better that barb fittings and hose clamps for this set-up? Any help would be greatly appreciated - Thanks

 

[Reach4]

Is there something better that barb fittings and hose clamps for this set-up?

When you use barbed fittings, use at least 2 worm gear clamps, and have the screws on opposite sides.

They make longer barbs that accept 3 clamps, but it is probably not needed. On poly pipe used for wells, the the poly is sized per ASTM D2239 where IPS ID is held and OD varies with PSI ratings. http://www.charterplastics.com/pipe/
So the same barb size fits the different pressure rating pipes.

You should need to heat the poly to get it over the barbs. Heating with boiling water is safest, since you are not practiced with hotter sources. Brass or stainless barbs are what you want for the pipe in the casing, I am pretty sure. Opinions vary on nylon up top. I am not a pro.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Terry Coen]

When you use barbed fittings, use at least 2 worm gear clamps, and have the screws on opposite sides.

They make longer barbs that accept 3 clamps, but it is probably not needed. On poly pipe used for wells, the the poly is sized per ASTM D2239 where IPS ID is held and OD varies with PSI ratings. http://www.charterplastics.com/pipe/
So the same barb size fits the different pressure rating pipes.

You should need to heat the poly to get it over the barbs. Heating with boiling water is safest, since you are not practiced with hotter sources. Brass or stainless barbs are what you want for the pipe in the casing, I am pretty sure. Opinions vary on nylon up top. I am not a pro.

Thanks for the info Reach4 - much appreciated!

 

[Craigpump]

Poly pipe has a natural curve to it because it's rolled when it's warm, so it maybe tough to get into a 2" well. Plus you have the clamps to deal with..

It can probably be done, but it won't be as easy, especially on a cold, winter Michigan day. I'd use sch 80 PVC with sch 40 PVC couplings.

 

[Terry Coen]

Poly pipe has a natural curve to it because it's rolled when it's warm, so it maybe tough to get into a 2" well. Plus you have the clamps to deal with..

It can probably be done, but it won't be as easy, especially on a cold, winter Michigan day. I'd use sch 80 PVC with sch 40 PVC couplings.

Good morning Craigpump, thanks for the response. I agree on both issues (natural curve and dealing with clamps), my goal was to get away from galvanized pipe. Is it better to use the schedule 40 PVC fittings or would it make sense to use brass or stainless fitting for more strength? Thanks again fro your response - much appreciated.

 

[Terry Coen]

Good morning Craigpump, thanks for the response. I agree on both issues (natural curve and dealing with clamps), my goal was to get away from galvanized pipe. Is it better to use the schedule 40 PVC fittings or would it make sense to use brass or stainless fitting for more strength? Thanks again fro your response - much appreciated.

Hello again Craigpump, Sorry for the dumb question concerning using brass or stainless fittings - not awake yet. Why schedule 40 fittings? Smaller diameter to get into the 2" well? Thanks again

 

[Texas Wellman]

Use sch 80 1" pvc. You need special adapters at the top and bottom to convert it to 1.25 for the jet and wellhead. You use 1" because regular 1.25 couplings won't fit in the well.

 

[Terry Coen]

Use sch 80 1" pvc. You need special adapters at the top and bottom to convert it to 1.25 for the jet and wellhead. You use 1" because regular 1.25 couplings won't fit in the well.

Makes sense - Thank you!

 

[Terry Coen]

Makes sense - Thank you!

Thanks to all for help and support on my well questions - I need one more bit of advice. I have decided to go with the 1" schedule 80 pipe and special adapters; this seems like it will be the easiest to work with in the cold weather. My problem (or question) is that I intend to place the new drop line set-up into the well and run the new lines into the house this week-end but won't be in a position to Prime and test it for a week or so because I am also in the middle of insulation and furnace work inside the house. I will not have that all complete for at least a week or so, so freezing water, pipes, pump, etcetera, would be a problem. Unfortunately, I need to need to get the hole back-filled and return the expensive back-hoe this week-end. Sooooo - with all that said, is there a potential problem with the leathers not swelling up and sealing properly since it will be a while before I actually prime the system? Any thoughts or suggestions? Thank you all again for your great advice - much appreciated!

 

[Terry Coen]

Use sch 80 1" pvc. You need special adapters at the top and bottom to convert it to 1.25 for the jet and wellhead. You use 1" because regular 1.25 couplings won't fit in the well.

Hello again - could you provide more detail on "Special adapters"? Are they something readily available at Menard's or Home Depot?
Thanks again for your advice - much appreciated

 

[Texas Wellman]

Not found in any retailer.

It's a special part.

 

[Texas Wellman]

Does that well head kit you ordered come with thin collars? If so just use 1.25" sch 80 PVC. No special adapters needed. Although I advise against using galv. collars with PVC pipe it will probably be OK in a galv. well.