Brass coupler thread failing

[tropics surfer]

Hello again, just finished installing a pre-charged pressure tank and will be taking the T fitting apart after the first start-up (and it's a pain because it's in tight quarters).
The leak is coming from a 1" brass coupler (Watts, made you-know-where) that appears to thread correctly until the last two or three turns, where it takes on a visible angle. This is the second one of these couplers I tried; the first went back to the orange box store and was exchanged for another, and although it looked like it was threaded straight and true (in the store-even took a threaded nipple with me) it did not show it's defect until threaded tightly.
This was installed with a teflon based thread sealer paste, which hasn't worked.
What are my options?
When I take it apart will the threaded nipple be damaged also?
I'll need a new brass coupler, correct? (where to find a better quality coupler?)
Would a threadlocker work with a new one? What brand?

Problem #2
trying to put a 3/4" braided beverage type hose onto a threaded brass pipe nipple isn't holding water. Have placed rescue tape over threads and tightened the hose clamp down tight, still leaks.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance....

 

[Asktom]

Problem #1 - perhaps the problem started with the nipple not the couplings.

Problem #2 - use a brass hose barb X MIP instead of a nipple.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[tropics surfer]

Problem #1 - perhaps the problem started with the nipple not the couplings.

Problem #2 - use a brass hose barb X MIP instead of a nipple.

Is there a way to look at the threads of each and really tell? I just figured it was the coupler..I have it tight enough so not sure if any damage was done to either when I disconnect it...probably have to go with both parts new?
Is there a thread sealer that would help...we're at about 60 psi on the high side.
Sorry, what does X MIP mean?

 

[Asktom]

MIP means "Male Iron Pipe", which is to say it has outside threads that conform to the specs of pipe. So, I am talking about a fitting that has a barb on one end and outside threads on the other end.

 

[hj]

quote; it did not show it's defect until threaded tightly.

That may be when you saw it, but it would have been that way from the start. A metal thread does not "suddenly" get crooked.

 

[tropics surfer]

quote; it did not show it's defect until threaded tightly.

That may be when you saw it, but it would have been that way from the start. A metal thread does not "suddenly" get crooked.

Thanks for the replies..[not saying it was suddenly crooked, it was the second coupler] (or nipple that was tried)
I've read that many chinese made products lack correctly cut threads...so..
Can anyone give an answer to my questions..

When I take it apart will the threaded nipple be damaged also?
I'll need a new brass coupler, correct?
Would a threadlocker work with a new one? What brand?

 

[Reach4]

I suspect that you cross threaded the thread that you are putting the couplers onto. To fix this, you might want to try to find a thread chaser or a split-die. If you dealt with that a lot, this kind of tool could be useful if you found a similar one for NPT thread: http://www.murraycorp.com/split-die-tool.html

It is possible that you could repair the thread with a file and just threading a connector on straight. To help keep the connector straight, you might want to put a length of pipe temporarily onto the connector before trying to screw the connector on the next time. That would give you a better picture of the alignment.

In threading onto things, I like to turn the coupler ccw initially. Then after I feel a drop into the thread, then I will switch to CW.


Maybe there is a nipple that you could replace that would replace that suspect thread. I suggest to not us new galvanized pipe for your drinking water except for temporary use.

Do not use thread locker. Do use Teflon tape and/or pipe dope such as Rectoseal#5. Most just use Teflon. Using both is redundant, which is not necessarily bad.

I am not a pro.

 

[Asktom]

" I suggest to not us new galvanized pipe for your drinking water except for temporary use."

Why?

 

[tropics surfer]

" I suggest to not us new galvanized pipe for your drinking water except for temporary use."

Why?

Reach4, thanks...when I take this apart tomorrow I suspect I'll need a new coupler and pipe nipple, and I just found an extra of each in my parts supply.
what puzzles me is that twice now, (second coupler) the pipe nipple threaded perfectly straight into the coupler about 3/4ths of the way, then started an angle. I'm positive I didn't cross thread...so, seeing it, just torqued and hoped for the best.
It's hard to find brass plumbing parts here, most homes use pvc, so my sources are limited.
New parts going on tomorrow.
And I shouldn't use JB Weld Water Seal, huh? It's tempting, this thing's startin to tick me off

 

[Reach4]

" I suggest to not us new galvanized pipe for your drinking water except for temporary use."

Why?

Galvanized rusts. I put a galvanized nipple in when I put in a new diverter faucet in the bath tub. It was initially fine. Then maybe a month later, the initial water from that faucet was rusty. It may have developed some kind of inside coating after a while. And maybe if this was before my water softener it would not have happened. And maybe the problem was that it was between two brass fittings. But the problem immediately went away when I replaced the steel with brass. I was surprised how much rusty water came from that one little nipple.

The 1/2 NPT 3-1/2 steel was in the stores that I shop, which is why I initially put in the steel.

 

[DonL]

Problem #1 - perhaps the problem started with the nipple not the couplings.

If that is the case, You can Grind down the Nipple ends so that they do not bottom out before sealing properly.

 

[hj]

quote; straight into the coupler about 3/4ths of the way, then started an angle.

You do NOT understand that a METAL pipe and coupler absolutely CANNOT DO THAT. ESPECIALLY AFTER 3/4 of the way.

 

[tropics surfer]

quote; straight into the coupler about 3/4ths of the way, then started an angle.

You do NOT understand that a METAL pipe and coupler absolutely CANNOT DO THAT. ESPECIALLY AFTER 3/4 of the way.

Even though the threads were cut in China?
Should I make a video of it for you?

 

[DonL]

Even though the threads were cut in China?
Should I make a video of it for you?

The Problem is that everything made there may not be taped correct.

It sounds like you are Putting the threads in to far. Cut the ends off if they go past half way in the coupling.

JB Water Weld, works good. lol


Don't tell

 

[Craigpump]

It's pretty damn hard to cross thread quality pipe fittings.

I've never seen fittings start straight and then go crooked so I wonder if the threads may be cut so deep that the nipple is bottoming out which causes the nipple to cock.

 

[tropics surfer]

quote; straight into the coupler about 3/4ths of the way, then started an angle.

You do NOT understand that a METAL pipe and coupler absolutely CANNOT DO THAT. ESPECIALLY AFTER 3/4 of the way.

It might have been halfway. I know what I saw, because it happened twice.
Maybe the pipe nipple is crooked, or threads wrong, but both parts were right out of the package.
Puerto Rico is a dumping ground for manufacturer's seconds, rejects and all sorts of inferior products that wouldn't be sold in US stores.
Sounds anecdotal, and it is, but its backed up by locals who've lived here all their lives.

Don, thanks, I only put the threads in far enough to snug tight.. I'm convinced I'm dealing with reject parts.
Starting over tomorrow.

 

[FullySprinklered]

Dude. A cross-threaded part doesn't rate this many posts. Somebody's calling something by the wrong name, or there's a failure to communicate somewhere in the mix. I learned to carry taps and dies to chase or correct iron pipe threads in half and three quarter sizes. One of the few really smart things I've ever done, and it's saved me a bunch of time and money. Some pictures would probably help fix the whole situation, I'm thinking.

 

[tropics surfer]

Dude. A cross-threaded part doesn't rate this many posts. Somebody's calling something by the wrong name, or there's a failure to communicate somewhere in the mix. I learned to carry taps and dies to chase or correct iron pipe threads in half and three quarter sizes. One of the few really smart things I've ever done, and it's saved me a bunch of time and money. Some pictures would probably help fix the whole situation, I'm thinking.

Agree. If my first 4 questions had been answered there wouldn't be this many posts.

 

[DonL]

Agree. If my first 4 questions had been answered there wouldn't be this many posts.

I think you may be using the wrong part.

Take a close look at your Nipples.

http://www.ralstoninst.com/news/story/the-difference-between-npt-bspp-and-bspt-seals/


Good Luck

 

[FullySprinklered]

I think you may be using the wrong part.

Take a close look at your Nipples.

http://www.ralstoninst.com/news/story/the-difference-between-npt-bspp-and-bspt-seals/


Good Luck

We may have a breakthrough here. The Brits have their own threads?