Alternative way to plumb/operate pressure switch (moving tanks)?

[Tim Fastle]

After an addition I have to move my pressure tanks from the garage to the newly added shop (approx 50', all indoors). I am adding a filter and softener and if I leave the pressure tank it is the filter and softener I am adding will be "behind" the pressure tank and have reverse flow to my outside water supplies (tees off before house water). My plan is to move the tank so it will be before the filter, softener and inlets to the guest and main house but after the lines to the yards. The problem I have is, the pressure switch and wiring is located at the old tank location. Originally I thought I was fine with that but I now realize that if I leave the pressure switch there, if for some reason I shut the water off (close a valve) before the pressure switch, say at the new tank location, then there is no pressure switch in line to turn the pump off. Ideally I would like to move the pressure switch to be before the filter and softener but have no wiring in place (3 strands from controller to new pressure switch location) for that and would rather not have to run through fully finished, bedroom, guest house and shop.

Does anyone know of a remote or relay operated (low voltage, small wires) "remote" pressure switch option or have any ideas on a good way to do this. Another option, but not ideal, is to leave the pressure switch where it is and make sure that any time any valve before it is closed that power to the well is off and then, put a pressure relief valve at the new tank location just in case a valve is closed and the well pump power is not cut.

Any thoughts, input, ideas would be greatly appreciated. I've attached a quick, not to scale drawing of what I have and am doing.

Thanks!

 

[Reach4]

If you have more stuff, it is even more important to have a pressure relief valve.

You have power to the pump. Does the wire powering the pump pass near the new pressure tank location?

But if you are willing to run a low-voltage relay wire, that works. Understand that class 2 transformers fail more often than many things. Think of the doorbells that failed that you have seen. Radio will be even less reliable usually.

 

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[Tim Fastle]

Getting the power to the new location would be a fairly big project (now, had I been a smart man I would have realized that during the construction phase and it would have been fairly simple) hence why I am looking at alternatives. I briefly considered wireless but also thought that was way too unreliable. Are there products for a low voltage option to actuate the pressure switch or would I have to engineer something? The plus to the low voltage option is that I can run wires along the ceiling, under shelves and so on fairly easily (it's all relative). That with a pressure relief could work. Or, just leaving the switch were it is with the pressure relief. I am going to add a pressure relief regardless. Hoping someone has seen or done this and has an idea I have not considered. Thanks for your input.

 

[Reach4]

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/pump-control-relay.12438/#post-76934 #24 lists some specific part numbers. I don't know why they are called "definite purpose" relays.

I guess you would rather have something that is already in a box.

These look interesting:
http://www.functionaldevices.com/images/reference/power.jpg
https://www.grainger.com/category/prewired-relays/relays-and-accessories/industrial-controls-automation-and-machine-safety/electrical/ecatalog/N-qj0?okey=functional+devices+inc+/+rib&mkey=functional+devices+inc+/+rib&refineSearchString=functional+devices+inc+/+rib&NLSCM=14&EndecaKeyword=functional+devices+inc+/+rib&searchBar=true&searchRedirect=functional+devices+inc+/+rib&suggestConfigId=6

 

[Tim Fastle]

They are interesting although I would have to do some research to figure out which one would best serve the purpose. I was wondering if there is a specific product that addresses this problem. Maybe a low voltage pressure switch along with the relay I would use to at the old pressure switch location. I may just end up putting the pressure relief valve in and clearly and loudly label any shut off valve before the pressure switch with "POWER MUST BE OFF BEFORE CLOSING THIS VALVE!". The idiot proofing would have to be the pressure relief valve.

 

[Reach4]

You need normally a pressure tank at the pressure switch for the pressure switch to work right. Having two separated pressure tanks may create problems.

There may be a way around that. I remember some talk of a snubber on a pressure switch that might help with that. Since that involves an orifice to slow down pressure changes, that could present a problem with clogging, it seems to me.

 

[Tim Fastle]

Hummm ... that's interesting and and after some reading a good point. Having given it some thought, the low voltage relay is starting to sound like a decent route. I am going to have to think on this some. Thanks for your input and if you have any thoughts on where I might look for a low voltage inline pressure switch I'd appreciate it.