I have a 1.5 hp submersible pump system with a bladder tank. The distribution system is 1.25 PVC from well head to manifold and tank. Domestic water is 1" to home and outbuildings. 1.5" PVC to lawn irrigation and outdoor hose bibbs. We grow approx. I acre garden, and have been irrigating with a 3" trash pump from an older 4"well from back of property. Suction side of that system is 2"-20' down well with foot valve. Electricity is 500' from that well. Decided it would be better to irrigate from existing domestic well. We irrigate with t-tape, utilizing pressure regulating valve @15psi, .34gpm/100' of tape, approx. 6000' of tape total. We inject fertilizer into the t-tape (fertigation) so will install pressure vacuum breaker between garden and rest of system. Well should supply about 28gpm, total draw s/b about 21gpm.
In order to stop rapid cycling of the pump, thereby shortening it's life, I have acquired a 120 gal vertical fiberglass tank (retention tank?) That came off a domestic water chemical injection system that failed. Looks like a Well Mate UT. Bottom of that tank has a tee w/2 1"ball valves. Top has a 1.25 fpt fitting. I am assuming that by adding an additional 100 gals of pressurized water would add run time between on/off cycles of the pump. Info that I have gleaned off the web, when used as a retention tank, water comes in at the bottom - one valve - other one for drain, and water is taken off the top incorporating an atmospheric vacuum breaker, to feed the using system. Since the intent here is to use the tank for pressurized storage rather than retention for chemical mixing, a better piping scheme would seem to be to bring water into one side of bottom tee and out the other side to the irrigation system, and block off the top outlet, once the tank was full. This is where I get lost. As the water was used, the level in this tank would fall. Everything I read indicates that these tanks will not withstand vacuum, so AVB would have to be installed in the top plug to keep the tank from imploding. If one does that, and the tank starts to fill, it would compress the air in the top that was admitted by the vacuum breaker, and you no longer have a storage tank but more likely another pressure tank. I think that defeats my purpose. I'm researching cycle stop valves, but would like to incorporate this tank, since I have it, and am curious. Thanx in advance for any help and advice.
In order to stop rapid cycling of the pump, thereby shortening it's life, I have acquired a 120 gal vertical fiberglass tank (retention tank?) That came off a domestic water chemical injection system that failed. Looks like a Well Mate UT. Bottom of that tank has a tee w/2 1"ball valves. Top has a 1.25 fpt fitting. I am assuming that by adding an additional 100 gals of pressurized water would add run time between on/off cycles of the pump. Info that I have gleaned off the web, when used as a retention tank, water comes in at the bottom - one valve - other one for drain, and water is taken off the top incorporating an atmospheric vacuum breaker, to feed the using system. Since the intent here is to use the tank for pressurized storage rather than retention for chemical mixing, a better piping scheme would seem to be to bring water into one side of bottom tee and out the other side to the irrigation system, and block off the top outlet, once the tank was full. This is where I get lost. As the water was used, the level in this tank would fall. Everything I read indicates that these tanks will not withstand vacuum, so AVB would have to be installed in the top plug to keep the tank from imploding. If one does that, and the tank starts to fill, it would compress the air in the top that was admitted by the vacuum breaker, and you no longer have a storage tank but more likely another pressure tank. I think that defeats my purpose. I'm researching cycle stop valves, but would like to incorporate this tank, since I have it, and am curious. Thanx in advance for any help and advice.