40yr old State heater?

[Pineapple12]

I'm in the process of addressing some water quality issues, and thought it would probably be a good idea to replace my water heater while I'm at it. My water heater is over 40 years old (1978)! As far as I know, it's original to the house. It's a State Censible 52 gallon. 4500W. (PV 52 2RS7)

I'm guessing this is a ticking time bomb and should be replaced ASAP right? Why has this one lasted so long without leaking?! Most of the new tanks I'm finding are only 6, 9, or 12 year warranty. Of course, I'm sure this one is no longer operating efficiently - but no leaks yet.

I see that State is still around. I was wondering if they still make a reliable heater? Any other recommendations for a heater that will last? Thanks again!

 

[Terry]

I doubt anything will last as long as that one. You did well.

I've been installing contractor grade Rheem and Bradford White.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

WH life is somewhat luck of the draw. It's surprising that it lasted that long. The new ones will be more efficient because of the mandated better insulation. I think that to try to make them as inexpensive as possible, the lining used is now thinner since it is more automated. Maybe less imperfections, but a thicker lining probably has some advantages.

 

[Dj2]

That's remarkable.
State WH division is part of AO Smith, but today's WHs are not designed to last 40 years.

 

[Pineapple12]

I'm pretty amazed myself. Part of me wants to tempt fate a little more - the other part has me waking up at 2am wondering if my basement is flooded yet.

When looking at new ones, is there any efficiency advantage with tall / medium / short tanks? I have room for all varieties, but wanted to choose the most efficient. Similarly, would a 4500W be more or less efficient than a higher watt unit. It would make sense that higher watt would get hotter faster - but is that more efficient from an electricity cost perspective.

Also, a few friends have suggested that there is no real physical difference between a 6yr waranty and a 12 year warranty. That you just pay for a warranty. Wondering if there is any truth to that. I've heard maybe the 12yrs have bigger sacrificial anodes? Thanks again!

 

[Jadnashua]

A higher wattage element won't be any more or less efficient, but will reheat the tank faster. You need to look at the wiring to the WH and the amperage. On an electric tank, they're all fairly efficient from a standby loss viewpoint as there's no flue going up the middle. You could calculate the surface area...one with the larger area would have more standby losses.

On some tanks, getting a longer warranty is literally just paying more. Some do offer some updates to their longer warranty tanks like a brass drain valve versus a plastic one, and sometimes a larger or more anodes, but not always. Since most of them don't include any labor costs, it may not save much in the end run of it all.

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

State water heaters are basically junk and we only install Rheem .....I would guess you are
on a well so the anode rod should be removed ....

also, that water softener is as old as the hills
too.... that is an old autotrol unit which is very outdated and
I would guess is a yea 2000 era unit.... Its probably close to being
worked to death at this point.....

Change it all out while you are doing this

 

[Pineapple12]

Yes, replacing the softener is actually where I started. I've posted over in that forum for advice on sizing a proper replacement. Need to get some decent water tests. My entire setup is outdated. That Autotrol unit has a date code of 9611. I'm guessing that's 1996. The pump has been in the ground since the mid 1980's. Not sure about the pressure tank (Well-X-Trol WX-252), but I'm guessing it's also fairly old. Seems to keep pressure, but eventually that'll get replaced too. I've lived in this house my entire life. My Dad built it in 1978 and my wife and I bought it from my mom when he passed. It definitely served our family well!

 

[Master Plumber Mark]

Just go get a Clack water softener probably best to get a 48,000 grain unit
if the autotrol worked ok, and took all the iron and sediments out of the water
since 96 then the Clack will work great cause it is twice the unit you have now...

Just throw some bleach down the well to kill off all the old bacteria and then let it
set all day long.... it will basically take care of issues in the well.... then by pass the water softener
and flush the bleach through the lines in the house until you smell chlorine in the fixtures
and it will kill off everything in the pipes....
and you are good to go

 

[Rmgolob]

Not contradicting anything anyone has said about preemptively replacement, but my WH was manufactured in Jan 1977 and installed as part of new construction that year.
We bought the house in 2012 and no issues...

 

[Rmgolob]

I doubt anything will last as long as that one. You did well.

I've been installing contractor grade Rheem and Bradford White.

75 Gallon - 76,000 BTU High Input Atmospheric Vent Energy Saver Residential Water Heater (Nat Gas)
RG275H6N

Would this be one?
How do I know if it is contractor grade?

Thank you in advance,
Rob

 

[Rmgolob]

I doubt anything will last as long as that one. You did well.

I've been installing contractor grade Rheem and Bradford White.

Professional Classic Plus Heavy Duty Atmospheric 75 Gallon Natural Gas Water Heater with 8 Year Limited Warranty
MODEL # PRO+G75-76N RH

Likewise - contractor grate?

 

[Phog]

You know it's contractor grade when a contractor installs it.