4 wire submersible 110volt electrical issues.

[Craigpump]

I've never seen a 1.5 hp 110 volt submersible pump. That said, I bet it won't last a year before you're changing it.

 

[RandyVMD]

Normally, if you are using a submersible pump to pump to a shallower depth, you orient the pump horizontally, and ideally put it into a flow inducer / sleeve to provide better motor cooling.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[RandyVMD]

No it does not do that.

I would check the cap wiring, It looks like it was replaced using a different type. (Start-Run 2 section)

The connections to the cap have been Hot, As seen in your picture.

Not sure what you mean by cap, the wires looked brand new when I started, thus the blogging!

 

[RandyVMD]

Normally, if you are using a submersible pump to pump to a shallower depth, you orient the pump horizontally, and ideally put it into a flow inducer / sleeve to provide better motor cooling.

That is easily done, will give that a try if I can keep it running. Just would mount to cinder blocks to keep it from sediment contact.

 

[RandyVMD]

I've never seen a 1.5 hp 110 volt submersible pump. That said, I bet it won't last a year before you're changing it.

Really only needed for very intermittent use if I can keep it running, hopeful it will do better than that.

 

[RandyVMD]

That pump is 110 volts only, get rid of the extension cord and run # 10 wire directly from the breaker to the control box getting rid of the plugin setup

This brings me back to my main point of confusion: if the pump is 110vac only and supplied with 4 wires from a control box why did the control box come with an attached cord to be plugged into a standard 220v European supply receptacle? Chinese product with confusing ratings? Control box seems set to handle alternating phases of 110 and in service is drawing too many amps. Any electricians have insight?

 

[Reach4]

That is easily done, will give that a try if I can keep it running. Just would mount to cinder blocks to keep it from sediment contact.

Here was a picture using more PVC.
https://terrylove.com/forums/index....-pump-in-cistern-mounting-installation.23621/

 

[Bgard]

This brings me back to my main point of confusion: if the pump is 110vac only and supplied with 4 wires from a control box why did the control box come with an attached cord to be plugged into a standard 220v European supply receptacle? Chinese product with confusing ratings? Control box seems set to handle alternating phases of 110 and in service is drawing too many amps. Any electricians have insight?

cord and plug connections are loose and do not make good contact,with each connection you add a little resistance which in turn increases the current, it gets worse with a larger load. as for why it came that way I would guess because it is made in china and does not have to meet any certifications such as UL or the NFPA.

 

[DonL]

Not sure what you mean by cap, the wires looked brand new when I started, thus the blogging!

Capacitor. The connections look like they got hot.

 

[DonL]

 

[RandyVMD]

cord and plug connections are loose and do not make good contact,with each connection you add a little resistance which in turn increases the current, it gets worse with a larger load. as for why it came that way I would guess because it is made in china and does not have to meet any certifications such as UL or the NFPA.

Board, seems like the front end of your response did not post. Could you please repeat that comment?

 

[RandyVMD]

Board, seems like the front end of your response did not post. Could you please repeat that comment?

Bgard, not board as salutation (love auto correct)

 

[RandyVMD]

Capacitor. The connections look like they got hot.

Capacitor did get hot, can it be checked or should I just replace?

 

[Bgard]

Board, seems like the front end of your response did not post. Could you please repeat that comment?

that was the entire quote