3 gang Insteon switch install driving me nuts~

[frodiggs]

Going a bit nuts here and my lack of experience is getting in the way.

Replacing 3 switches - 2 older 2 wire Leutron dimmers and a leutron 3 wire dimmer [which is also controlled at the other end of the kitchen. This 3 way switch has contrasting orientation.]

new switches are Insteon home automation type dimmers (2477D). The Insteon's have red/white (load) black(line) and bare copper ground wires.

I was able to get the 3 way working (far right) but having problems integrating the other 3 wire Insteons to the existing 2 wire setup that the leutrons had.

See pic. The other 2 standard 2 wire dimmers we're just pigtailed to a line and separately to loads, seems i've not completed the circuit.

My 2nd new switch (1st on left) has power but will not control light, ive not integrated the 3rd new switch yet- old leutron in in the middle

 

[Cacher_Chick]

When I walk into a job like this, the first thing I do is ignore what the owner did and start over from scratch.

1. Identify the hot and neutral coming into the box.
Never assume there is only one hot coming in.
2. Identify which cable feeds which light.
3. For a 2-way switch identify which is the hot and runner conductor separately.

A basic 2-terminal switch is line and load + ground,
A lighted or "smart" dimmer will often require a neutral.

If you don't have a multimeter and know how to use it, leave the electrical work for those that do.

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Jadnashua]

At the switch, it is fairly common on not very old construction for there to NOT be a neutral available (latest codes I've heard require it, making the wire routing a bit less efficient in some cases). Some of the smarter automation switches require power and neutral, and you can't get there without rewiring where an 'old-school' dimmer would have worked just fine. The switched leg should have a red marker on it, but that often is not done.

 

[Jadnashua]

At the switch, it is fairly common on not very old construction for there to NOT be a neutral available (latest codes I've heard require it, making the wire routing a bit less efficient in some cases). Some of the smarter automation switches require power and neutral, and you can't get there without rewiring where an 'old-school' dimmer would have worked just fine. The switched leg should have a red marker on it, but that often is not done.

 

[frodiggs]

I have Klein tools ET50.​

6, 2 wire cables in the box​

original setup​

all ground wires spliced together​

wire cables 1&2: whites are netural and spliced, blacks are spliced and are line. the original dimmers were pigtailed to this spliced black line to their line wires​

wire cables 3&4: whites are netural and spliced along with neutral from cables 1&2, blacks are load and independently went to the 2 wired dimmers as load​

wire cable 5: white is netural and spliced along with neutral from cables 1-4, black is load went to red wire of old dimmer [and now connected to red wire of new dimmer]​

wire cable 6: white is oddly line here and is connected to black wire on new dimmer. black wire not used currently​

working new dimmer on far right also has neural added to 5 spliced neutral wires and ground wire connected to spliced grounds.​

 

[frodiggs]

go it working with this setup

Black 1, black 2, dimmer 1 black, dimmer 2 black all get connected together.
Black 3 goes to dimmer 1 red.
Black 4 goes to dimmer 2 red.
Whites get connected to the neutral splice.