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I think this photo of the replacement dip tube assembly will make it clear why a gasketed fitting helped.

This is my temporary fix until I get a warranty dip tube and a 3/4" NPS x 3/4" NPT fitting. It has eliminated the yellow water.

I ran by the local supply house and got a 3/4" NPS x 1/2" NPT meter coupling, and a 3/4" to 1/2" bushing. The meter coupling fit perfectly, so I suspect the A Y McDonald fitting would do the job. I'll give this setup a day to see if the gasketed meter coupling fixes the yellow water. If it...

I just got off the phone with AO Smith and the vendor, and I've got a warranty replacement for the dip tube on backorder.

Could I used this fitting at the outlet of my water heater?

Are there 3/4" FIP swivel elbows in brass or stainless? I want the gasketed fitting you normally see on flex water heater hoses, but on an elbow instead of a hose.

Well, the new brass fittings didn't fix the issue. I think I'm going to reach out to the water heater vendor, and see if I can get a replacement dip tube, and then hook up to it with a fitting that uses a gasket and covers the exposed metal.

I found some different brand brass fittings in my junk box, and gave them a try. I wrapped the heck out of the new elbow with teflon tape. If that doesn't work, I'll try a stainless elbow next.

The inlet, which has the exact same setup, has no corrosion.

What I have, the brass street elbow and stainless flex, is clearly not ok. What should I replace it with?

The outlet nipple is rusting.

The only carbon steel in the system, as far as I can tell, is the galvanized nipple on the j tube at the outlet. The elbow on the tank is brass. The flex hoses are corrugated stainless. The mixing valve and surrounding fittings are brass. I figure the issue has to be between the tank outlet and...

I have a brand new AO Smith Voltex HPTU-66N heat pump water heater. I have brass elbows on the inlet and outlet connecting to 24" stainless corrugated flex hoses (forming a heat trap), connecting to various brass fittings and a mixing valve. Whenever I run hot water, the very first bit of hot...

Looks like they still make 'em: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bradford-White-RE120WV6-1NAL-19-Gallon-Wall-Hung-Energy-Saver-Electric-Residential-Water-Heater-120V

I'm looking at getting an AO Smith HPTU-80N 80 gallon hybrid water heater delivered to my house. The shipping weight on this thing is 307lbs. How should I move this thing down the stairs to the basement? Am I going to be able to move this around strapped to a hand truck? I don't want to do...

I'm fairly sure that I'm looking at a Ford Meter Box ball valve. I'm a little concerned because the handle attachment looks a lot like some sort of lift up pressure release. And I don't want to start a big leak where the water line enters my house. Have I identified this correctly? Am I safe...

I'll do the motor test in the next few days. If I need to replace the motor, I see a few options: Stick with Grundfos, but go to 3 wire: 96465612 Motor, 1.5HP ($389 + shipping) 98315254 or 91126212 Control Box, 1.5HP ($125) Switch to Franklin 2243009203S Motor, 1.5HP ($561 + shipping)...

I don't want to get caught running back and forth to my well looking for the right tools while my house is without water. Will I need any special tools or supplies to pull the motor from the pump and put it back?

Am I going to do my motor any harm if I pull the pump, separate the motor from the pump, and start the motor and watch the current for a few seconds?

I'm picking a new pump. During full flow, the minimum pressure at the CSV needs be 60psi for it to maintain regulation. Any higher is unneeded. My well is 28' deep. So the head I need at full flow is 167' or less, because the CSV is a little ways into the well. With the goal of at least 12GPM...