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Thanks! No AC unfortunately. I'm in the mountains of Western NC, so it's a bit of reprieve from the low lander heat, but that also means 30 degrees is a fairly common winter day, with quite a few days getting into the teens. 5500 element might be my first line of attack. Follow up: would there...

Sorry, I had a little trouble following that. Your saying that my water heater element will only fire one or the other at a time they way it's currently wired, but it can be wired so that both will fire? Is that a screen shot of how I should wire it? What amperage is recommended for that?

Yes, the slab is insulated with the recommended foam board under and up the sides.

It's set to 110 for the out. And when the water heater has time to fully recover, when the pump turns off, it will get to 110, but once it's been running a bit, the output is only around 80-85..

Understood, i just assumed my issues was having to keep 60 gallons of water/glycol heated from the tank and tubes, instead of just the 10-ish gallons in the tubes.

Interesting idea. The current set up is in an uninsulated, unheated part of the building. The two insulated/heated sections are separated. The piping from this unit to where it enters the concrete pads is insulated.

Walls are insulated. Roof is not, yet.

Yes, I can go as big as needed from an electrical stand point.

All, I set up this closed loop system for my shop last year. I have 4 closed loops for a total of 1200' of 1/2" pex that is heating 1200sqft split between two main rooms. It cost me around $350-400 during the coldest months. That is not what I was expecting based on previous research. So...

Thanks guys! Jadnashua, that explanation was super helpful. I reconfigured and added an expansion tank and a pressure gauge. Hopefully this will fix the issues. The PSI seems to only get up to 20 PSI now.

https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/9334/should-a-circulator-pump-be-installed-on-the-supply-or-return-of-a-forced-hot-wa https://inspectapedia.com/heat/Circulator_Pump_Installation.php These are links that directed me to put it on the return side - for reference. But they both indicate a...

John, that's good info, I've never heard that before. I was instructed to put the pump pushing the "cold" water into the water heater, because having the pump pull the water out of the tank would ruin the pump faster due to the extra heat of the out going water. And forgive my misunderstanding...

I was under the impression expansion tanks were not need for closed systems because you were not introducing cold water. If that is not the case, where in this system should it be, or does it matter? No additional pressure has been added. I flushed the system, then refilled and the system and...

All, I just installed the radiant system in my shop. All is working as intended, except when the system cycles off a cup or so worth water comes out the water heater discharge pipe. Any ideas why this is happening? And how to fix it? This is a completely closed loop system. I have the...

Hi Gary, The leak is at the joint. Under all the epoxy crap. I'm not sure I would be able to get all that stuff off, but if I did. How do you disassemble the joint? Just by heating it up again?

Okay. Thanks. Dang - I was hoping for some magical solution I had not thought of. Found a new one on **** for $35, which isn't terrible. It's the wait and frustration of redoing it what will kill.

I'm finishing my basement. Put in a shower. This was my first time soldering, and like an idiot I decided to make one of my first solders the super expensive rough in valve, instead of starting on some easily replaceable pieces. Anyways, when I added water pressure I noticed that at the...