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So we’re well into the dry season and I’m getting everything together to execute on this plan. I’m upsizing the gravity overflow drain pipe to 2” and will be using it as an emergency (power out) overflow drain for BOTH the sewer sump (see pic) and the under slab de-watering system. While you...

I have 4 foot deep sump with dual pumps and battery backup (Basement Watchdog system) installed in a walk out basement. I've posted about it here: https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/plastic-sump-repair-glue-goo-to-use.110581/ Since this basement is a walk out, I'm thinking about...

So . . . another month of rain (January now as I post this) and the basin hole patches continue to hold, but now the water table has finally risen to the under slab drainage trenches: there are two, one slightly higher than the other and the lower one only is now flowing water as fast or faster...

Here's an update so y'all know what I did and how it turned out. I didn't use the rubber plugs; it was just too difficult and too much upside down work to get those into the bottom of the sump (4' down). I vacuumed the sump and the holes and then squirted them full with a rubberized caulk and...

Cast iron is great stuff, but it will channel over the years and the water will wear its way through. You see that the earliest on horizontal runs, but the verticals certainly do it to. You could camera the pipes to evaluate. A split seam is highly unusual, but is possible depending on the...

I have found online a wealth of rubber plugs of all shapes and have ordered several. The ideal shape would be mushroomed on both sides, but all of those are for panel thicknesses of 1/16-1/8" and the sump walls are a solid 1/4" thick. That said, there are soft single cap plugs that look like...

The only flaw in the EBAY pic plan is the elimination of the bottom support. If you were to keep the long vertical riser, anchored top and bottom (the bottom with a flange screwed through the tile and into the concrete board) then you'd be fine. You can eliminate the bottom mount, and put your...

Last winter I would turn the pump off and watch the flow. Over a matter of two minutes water would bubble up from the holes in the bottom (floor only not the sides) of the sump until it was so full that water started back flowing into the drain pipes at the top of the sump. It was as if the...

Yes it is a lever, but that doesn't matter to the joint. It's nearly equal in strength to a solid length of pipe. Where the lever causes you problems is in magnifying any rotational forces that would inadvertently undo your joint and make it leak. Threads only fail by being overtightened and...

There's one school of thought that says to drill holes in your basin to avoid it floating. Another school says the slab will hold it in place. There's another sump of exactly the same size and depth in this floor that wasn't drilled (it's for a future bathroom septic) and in the rainy season...

The drilled holes are 1/2" diameter. Agree with the strategy of getting sealant to 'mushroom' on the other side but not sure how to execute on that. The soil here is sand and silt; extremely hard when dry and compacted, but water flows right through it during the rainy season.

I have an Everbilt plastic sump pit with extension ring installed in a concrete basement floor and serves an under slab de-watering system. The pit is about 4' deep with the extension, more depth than needed. Its bottom was drilled with holes and up the sides about 2-3" from the bottom. I...

Once your pipes and fittings are joined with sufficient torque to eliminate any leaks they are, from an engineering calculation, considered practically a single piece. Particularly NPT threads with their taper create a spectacularly strong joint for carrying/transfering loads. So no need to...

Thanks for that confirm James. Is there an ideal way to finesse this transition? A simple bushing gets me from 2" to 3", but that may be conducive to sludge formation? I thought of bringing the 2" in via a long sweep and capping the 3" end as a cleanout. In the future, I'm remodeling a...

At what point do you transition a lift pump line from 2" to 3 or 4"? If you have a long horizontal run after the lift, and the run has the correct pitch, then why not make the horizontal piece 3" or larger and let gravity do the work? Or is it better to run the 2" pressure line all the way to...

Another Caroma fan boy here; don't know about your rough in question, but have been installing/using Caroma for 20+ years now. The only toilet that never clogs. 4" trapway and wash down flush!

I'm installing a sewage pump system in an existing (but unused) basin that drains a bath and kitchen in a basement. Total lift is 12' from basin floor. The typical pipe diameter in these systems is 2", and it will eventually tie into an existing 3" DWV pipe after a 20' horizontal run that...

Caroma vs. Gerbervit Wallhung We've had a Caroma Walvit walhung in use for 2 years now and it is the best darn toilet ever. Quiet flush and silent refill. Tank in the wall is really cool and the wallhung installation makes cleaning a snap. When trying to decide between the Caroma and the...