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The boiler is under 3 years old so the reverse indirect seems to be the way to go. I am not sure about combining the zones. How much further benefit would I get pulling out the circulators and totally re-plumbing down to a single zone as compared to keeping the temperature in 80% of the house...

Ran it for 30 minutes. The first time burn was 4 minutes, the second, just shy of the 30 minute mark, was 2 minute 35 seconds.

I think I got it. I need a day to digest. Might this explain why in the aquastat the thermostat connections (T, TV) are jumped and the end switch connections (X,X) in the relay are not wired, which as I understand it would leave the boiler to cycle on/off unaffected by the zone thermostats...

I bought the house with four zones installed. I isolate areas that are not being used, such as the basement zone which almost always off. The doors to the bedrooms and two main bath zone are kept closed and the thermostat for that zone is programmed to kick up at night and drop a few degrees...

Dana - by "how much radiation", I assume you mean how many feet of base board. The four zones are 60', 38', 55' and 40'. Tom - What do you mean by "bug two zones on one relay"

I am in the planning stages of adding a zone & circulator for new indirect DHW . A couple of years ago the following was installed; Boiler: Slant/Fin Sentry S-120 Aquastat: Honeywell L8148E Relay: Taco SR504-EXP running 4 circulator zones My game plan is to make the indirect zone Zone 4 which...

New boiler and multi zone relay installed a couple of years ago. The the end switch (X X terminals) are not wired in the relay box and there is a jumper connecting the thermostat terminals (T TV) on the aquastat. Why would it be wired this way? Boiler: Slant/Fin Sentry S-120 Aquastat...

First, thanks again for the help. Here is what I learned: The expansion plugs that Home Depot (2 red discs with a rubber ring in between that expands when you tighten the wing nut and bolt through the center) do not fit. The lead caps are a bitch to remove as compared to the brass ones...

Ya know on second thought, after reading the exploding dishwasher thread, the sparks created by a cut off wheel may not be such a good idea :eek:. I think I will stick to a hammer and chisel.

So why doesn't every one use a PVC cap which can easily be cut out or the expansion cap which all you have to do is loosen the wing nut?

This is a follow up question to my other post "Best way to remove lead cap in cast iron main trap" https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24926 I went to Home depot and they have caps made from brass, lead, pvc and of a rubber/plastic expansion design. What is the plus and minus of...

Thanks for the quick responses. Are they always ribbed and not threaded? Do I need to be careful not to crack the cast iron pipe if I use it for leverage? Thanks also for the warning. I think I am safe because sink and occasional toilet use seems OK and I have not been using that bathroom...

With showers I have a slight back up in my basement at a slop sink drain next to the main drain. Figure the main trap and/or the pipe to the cesspool is clogged. The lead plugs in the cast iron trap and line out are stuck. I am using an 18" monkey wrench but am afraid to go bigger or to use a...