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Hence why I said "you could" and not "you must." The wife's initial complaint was with sink height, perhaps a vessel sink was something she hadn't thought of. ...did you skip your morning coffee today?

That wood wall transition you used to finish off your tile edge really was a poor choice. The "u-channel" that sits on top of your pan isn't really meant to be secured by just a couple of tiny screws. You need a heavy layer of silicone to adhere the hardware to the pan, as well as make it...

The wax ring will be enough. If your tile is very cheap, or the drill points are close to an edge/corner, you have to be careful or you risk cracking the tile. Some manufacturers make a special shut-off valve for skirted toilet installations, but you are better off moving the supply and...

I assume you are having problems with leaks occurring in the union nut of the p-trap fitting. Most p-traps use a slip-joint washer to make the seal at the union, but I have seen some that have the tapered slip-joint washer integrated into the union nut...and those are the ones that have...

1. Whoops, by factory installed unions, I meant factory installed nipples. 2. You are correct, I have never seen laminated nipples suffer from that much corrosion. 3. I use dielectric flex hoses to make my transitions, however otherwise I use cast brass FIP adapters or tank tees when hard...

100 year old clay pipe? If you are going to the trouble and expense to put an addition on, you should think about replacing that deteriorating dwv system and bring it up to code. No doubt the lines have settled over the years and sections are not sloped properly.

You could install a vessel sink with an extended vessel sink faucet, or you could just install a wall mount faucet at any height you want...

plastic/acrylic surrounds are non-porous, so drywall is fine so long as silicone seals are maintained. drywall around a drop-in tub is fine as the walls aren't going to be subjected to constant soaking. Drywall can be used in a shower space if an expensive sealing membrane is painted on and...

With an exposed ceiling from below, most of the guesswork is done for you. There's no reason why you shouldn't tear into that bathroom wall and recess your dwv and supplies like they should be, and install proper backing for your pedestal while you are at it.

Only the real cheapo water heaters don't come with unions factory installed. Any reputable brand will supply factory installed galv nipples which are lined with plastic...that's what you want. If you don't have those, then brass ones are a good substitute. You can adapt however you want from...

Having your water heater and exposed plumbing in an un-insulated space is kind of silly. I vote you should tear out all of that mess and hire a carpenter to frame out that utility room. You can then run your plumbing properly and protect it from the cold with insulation against that cinder block.

1. laminate doesn't belong in the bathroom 2. you are correct about the flange not being set correctly 3. this is a job for an experienced plumber, not a handyman or apprentice You have pvc there, so this isn't as easy as dealing with abs. I suggest you hire this out to a professional...

A great example of how code is just a minimum standard for how things can be done; often there are much better ways to install something. I always get a kick out of it when I hear tradesmen defending their horrible workmanship with "my work is done to code" and "I build to industry standard."

Hmm, service port for a diverter? I've never seen one like that before, I guess you really do learn something new everyday!

If you have an unfinished basement, you should consider upgrading your trunks (and possibly the service), if you are unhappy about pressure/volume drops from simultaneous draws on the system. My guess is that you have 1/2" trunks and a 1/2" supply.

You do know that installing wood in a bathroom is not a good idea right? Just stub up a 4" riser with cap, and scribe your flooring to it, and then install a flange once the floor and trim is done.

On rare occasions, the moen faucet that I just bought and installed right out of the box, will drip. And it turns out the cartridge has chewed up o-rings from the factory. However, I still trust Moen/Delta above all others.

The set screw probably is "fused" into place by now and will take some persuasion to get it to move. Also, it looks like your tubspout is siliconed into place, and you will have to free it first before you can attempt to remove it. Using a quarter (or loonie if you are in Canada) usually works...

Installing a C/O on a washing machine stack is a good idea; installing it above the wash box is not. One day someone will have to cable that line, and having a C/O high up off the floor is a safety risk for the operator of any drum machine. Also, C/O plugs are ugly, and most people want them...

Oh man...poor ozone layer....