Removing Clack Valve

[ElofEye]

I need to change the resin in my softner. How is the clack control valve supposed to be removed? I know that I need to disconnect it from the bypass valve first.

Does the entire control valve spin off or is that a nut holding it on? If that is a nut that needs loosened, I can't get it to budge. Is there a special wrench that I need?

Thanks

 

[Reach4]

It is not a nut. The controller screws into the tank. 2.5 inch 8 tpi thread. http://www.performancewater.com/portals/0/TechSpecFiles/WS1.25CI.pdf

 

[Sponsor]

 

[ElofEye]

Thank you!

 

[ditttohead]

That looks like a tank adapter of some type. We used to use a similar item for allowing the valve to spin apart from the tank, but that is a different manufacturer. Typically the nut will screw onto another plastic piece. The whole piece should come off the tank by unthreading it. Please post a picture of the adapter when you get it removed.

 

[Reach4]

That adapter observation makes sense. I wonder if it could adapt to a tank that is not 2.5 8 TPI thread.

http://www.zenwaterfilters.ie/product-images/clack-10-X-24/clack-ws1ci-left.jpg is a picture of the typical interface
http://shop.watex.eu/images/product...-bloki/clack-ws1-5/clack-ws1-5-ci/ws1.5ci.jpg shows a controller not on a tank.

 

[ElofEye]

Now I'm a little confused. Will I be able to spin the control valve off the tank or does that nut need to come off? I couldn't get the nut off and I don't want to order the resin if I can't get the valve off on my own.

 

[ditttohead]

Hard to say, I am not familiar with that exact adapter. Post some more pictures from different angles so we can see more clearly what you are dealing with.

 

[ElofEye]

I hope these will give you a better idea

 

[Old]

Just a reminder, you will need to put the unit on bypass (turn the bypass valves so they point at each other) and start a regeneration to relieve the water pressure in the softener before you disconnect anything. Without reliving the pressure it will be extremely hard to remove the softener from the bypass manifold.

 

[ElofEye]

Thanks for the advice. When I regenerate does it need to be in a specific stage for the water pressure to be relieved?

Can anyone tell by the photos if that is a nut that needs to come off or does the whole valve spin off? I don't want to break something doing it the wrong way. If that is a nut holding it on I'm hoping I can purchase a rubber strap wrench to remove it.

 

[Mialynette2003]

I've sold hundreds of Clack valves but have never seen a set up like yours. From the looks of it, the nut has to be loosened in order to get the valve off. They do make a wrench that would fit. Check online for a Clack wrench.

 

[Reach4]

I have not even touched a Clack controller. In the snip below, from a Clack manual, you can see a cross section. I suspect your controller housing may look like this, but that it is screwed into an adapter.
Edit... my suspicions were wrong.

 

[ElofEye]

I appreciate all of the help. I found a manual online for my system. I have confirmed that is a nut holding on the valve.

http://www.ilovemywater.com/uploads/manuals/manual120.pdf

One last questions. When I regenerate does it need to be in a specific stage for the water pressure to be relieved?

 

[Reach4]

I appreciate all of the help. I found a manual online for my system. I have confirmed that is a nut holding on the valve.

http://www.ilovemywater.com/uploads/manuals/manual120.pdf

Good deal. There it is on page 19.

When I regenerate does it need to be in a specific stage for the water pressure to be relieved?

Usually the softener is in service. Then when you start the regen, the unit goes first into backwash, which would relieve pressure if the incoming water is blocked by bypass.

 

[Mikey]

Can't you just shut off the upstream and bypass valves, and relieve the pressure by opening a downstream faucet?

 

[Reach4]

Can't you just shut off the upstream and bypass valves, and relieve the pressure by opening a downstream faucet?

You could shut off the upstream water, and open a downstream faucet. However you would not want the softener in bypass during that process.

 

[Mikey]

Of course... I assumed starting in service mode, and closing the bypass and upstream valves. Open any faucet in the house, then when pressure is relieved, close the downstream valve, and set the bypass valve depending on whether or not you want water available. Maybe my valve nomenclature is confusing.

 

[Old]

close bypass valves > start regen (backwash) > unplug power so valve remains in backwash > remove softener from bypass manifold> remove valve from mineral tank> pull distributor tube out> dump old resin/gravel> inspect distributor for cracks or weak plastic (good idea to just replace it as prevention) > place distributor in mineral tank, be sure it is seated fully, tape top of distributor tube> add gravel (hold distributor tube down while pouring gravel in, gravel can get under and push it up)> add resin> lube o rings on valve with silicone grease> screw valve back on mineral tank> attach softener back on to bypass (lube o-rings with silicone grease)> slowly crack the input side of the bypass valve only> fill tank slowly while in backwash until water comes out of drain> plug power back in> open both bypass valves fully> let unit complete regen> enjoy

 

[ditttohead]

It doesn't really have a function on this type of system other than to make the valve proprietary. It would allow the valve to rotate but why would that be necessary? It is nice if you are installing it on a Stainless Steel tank and you don't want to key the threads properly when welding the tank neck on and you want to be able to adjust the weld to the back for aesthetics, other than that I am not really sure that it has any function. Neat piece, but unnecessary.

 

[Mialynette2003]

It doesn't really have a function on this type of system other than to make the valve proprietary. It would allow the valve to rotate but why would that be necessary? It is nice if you are installing it on a Stainless Steel tank and you don't want to key the threads properly when welding the tank neck on and you want to be able to adjust the weld to the back for aesthetics, other than that I am not really sure that it has any function. Neat piece, but unnecessary.

It's has 2 purposes. 1 to make sure the company's name tag is always to the front and to insure that same company gets call when when it breaks down. LOL