Little help w/ this p-trap

[Giantsean]

Ok I lied about the last question being the last question. Seriously, this sink.

My original problem down below was threefold. The sink was too deep and the waste pipe too high, it was stubbed too far out, and I had a really badly designed overflow that emptied into the cheapo strainer they gave me with this sink. I eliminated the overflow problem by designing my own w/ PVC parts and tubing, and got a dishwasher tailpiece into which it could empty. I cut back the stubout almost to the wall, and have a little room to go if needed, but for now it lines up much better.

I originally hoped to solve the height problem by trimming the tailpiece down, but now the dishwasher inlet prevents me from going up as high as I need, and I am short an inch or two.

My first thought was just to glue together a trap, but will a regular glued trap have the same curve as the compression trap? I really don't have much left in terms of going back so it would have to match very closely. Alternatively, any ideas on how to make up that distance, and is it legal to do so?

One last one - can you jam the wall bend into the adapter all the way up to the curve, or will it cause leaking?

Thx as always!

 

[Giantsean]

Sorry someone suggested a reversible j-bend on another post. Is it as simple as that?

 

[Sponsor]

 

[Smooky]

You could try that and see if you can make it work:
http://www.oatey.com/products/brass-plastic-and-commercial-tubular-grab-bars/plastic-p-traps/1-12-p-trap-w-reversible-j-bend

You might be able to find a different dishwasher branch tail piece and a different p trap and make it work
http://www.sears.com/search=ace%20ah20664%20n%20branch%20tailpiece%201%202inch%20x

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-Chief-210-086-1-1-2-x-8-Chrome-Dishwasher-Tailpiece-3-4-Copper

 

[Giantsean]

Yeah the tailpiece is a tough one as the pictures are all over the place. I think the trap you posted above is my best bet, or I also found a low height bend (not really a J, more like macaroni-shaped) on another thread. None of the local supply houses carry either so they must be pretty specialized.

 

[Cacher_Chick]

A shallow sink drain basket would get you closer too.

The worst case scenario is that you need to open up the wall and lower the sanitary tee, which would only take a few minutes with the right tools and parts on hand.

 

[hj]

It is just an ordinary P trap with the J bend reversed. The regular low inlet trap just has the inlet cut off but other than that there is no difference.

 

[Giantsean]

Unfortunately it's not as easy to lower it as one might think, as it does not go straight down, rather turns left and travels several feet to the stack pipe.

@hj - I have only seen the low inlet trap in brass (all online) - do you know if they make it in PVC?

At any rate I think I'm good for purchased options. If I wanted to make a glued trap w/ off the shelf parts, that I could still remove, any votes for best design? Where I get jammed up on design is trying to figure out availability of the parts I might possibly need - ie do they make a short straight length with a slip joint end that could glue into a trap on one end?

 

[Terry]

I carry these on the vans. You can reverse them.

 

[Giantsean]

Thanks Terry... I am considering between that one and this one:

http://www.lasco.net/ptraps-c-2937_37_190_264_271/flexi-ptrap-1-12-or-1-14-p-5594.html#.V8HiBJgrKUk

Which has a low inlet j bend... though I am not sure if it mates up w/ all tailpieces the same or you have to use their flex tailpiece. I may have to buy them both and see which one works best

Thanks again all!