Recent content by MarkP1

Then the power-pipe can wait :) I spoke to a Viessmann technician, and he suggested although I am over the min and under the max, it will run better with their low-loss header (which will provide the primary / secondary piping). Part of this is due to their being a temperature sensor inside the...

More reading... more thinking... ahh! So having my first floor currently split into 3 zones seems very silly, and will be quite prone to short-cycling. Zones 1, 2 and 3 are all the first floor, and the house has rather large openings between areas (at least 8 foot wide openings or more...

Doing more homework... the Viessmann Vitodens 200 B2HA-19 looks like a great choice... 10900 BTUH min 61000 BTUH max Thoughts on this Viessmann versus the Lochnivar?

I am *slowly* starting to understand this (I think)... smallest zone if I combined is 53 feet. 23750 BTUH into 53 feet would mean 450 BTU per foot would need to be dissipated to keep delta-T of 20 running constantly. 450BTU per foot is a AWT of about 165 degrees, putting my return temp at 145...

So I will definitely look into having the joist / walls spray foamed, thank you! I found a Viessmann WB2 6-24, brand new, for $2400. For that price, it seems like a better choice than the Lochnivar WHN055 (which is about $2600). Thoughts on the Viessmann?

Foundation is concrete (8"), 90% is under ground. The band joist doesn't have much insulation at all. My total infiltration from manual-j was 28.5K BTUH. Walls were another 8.5K BTUH. So I've got until the end of October to have this installed, or my $3500 rebate goes away. I have a plumber...

So after doing a room by room manual J load calculation, and slightly reconfiguring my zones, I have: Zone 1: 13.5k BTUH, 41 linear feet of baseboard Zone 2: 15k BTUH, 42.5 linear feet of baseboard Zone 3: 8k BTUH, 53 linear feet of baseboard Zone 4: 22k BTUH, 102 linear feet of baseboard (1"...

What about combining zones 1 and 2? Basically, zone 1 is a family room, dining room, entryway, and kitchen, all over basement (somewhat heated by boiler being in the basement) with a second floor above. Zone 2 is a bonus room over an unheated garage (3 walls exposed to outside, attic above)...

Hi Tom, I am on natural gas. I have already been approved for a $3500 rebate through mass save on a new boiler as well. If I understand correctly, the min-fire of the Lochnivar is 10,500 BTUH, which at only 32 feet of baseboard meant it would need to expel 328 BTUH per foot of baseboard...

Thank you again Dana. Turns out there is 12 feet of radiator pipe suspended in the open part of my basement. It is not accounted for in the above figures (I forgot it was there). It is currently part of zone 3, but I could swap it to zone 2, giving zone 2 44 feet of baseboard. Would this be...

Ok, did a load calculation for each room of the house, and combined them into the 4 zones for the house: Zone 1: 11k BTUH, 48 linear feet of baseboard = 235 BTUH per linear foot output needed Zone 2: 9k BTUH, 32 linear feet of baseboard = 270 BTUH per linear foot output needed Zone 3: 15k BTUH...

Thank you Dana!! I really appreciate it So seems like part of step 1 in designing a system is done... gross BTU usage, now onto zone loads... Doing more research, depending on the length of the zone's in the home right now (4 zones... 3 on first floor and 1 on second?) might take me down...

Hi, Wow... so much great information, hard to know where to start thanking people! So after reading more threads than I can count, I think I have done my homework on sizing for a new boiler / water heater. House is a 1971 built home, in Topsfield MA. 2500sq ft, 2x4 walls (r-11...