Hello all -
I have a late 60's early 70's colonial, and over the last 2 to 3 years, Ive developed severe water hammer from the irrigation system closing zone valves. I've done my best to secure the pipe hander and strapping everywhere I have access to, and have opened a few walls to try to find the source without any luck.
After seeing some suggestions online, I drained both the hot and cool side in the hopes any air chambers would be re-filled with air. I've not actually seen any air chambers, so I dont know if the house actually has any. However after draining and re-filling, I did see quite a lot of disgusting murky water come out the taps and shower heads. Not sure if this is evidence of the existence of air chambers (and stagnant water). At first, this seemed to have helped reduce the water hammer, but after a couple dozen tests runs, I've still had a few large bangs.
The city water service appears to be around 80 psi, which seems high but not crazy high. Ive already installed a small water hammer arrestor screwed into the outdoor tap on the irrigation feed line. This did not do much if anything at all.
I'd like to add a pressure regulator since my home does not have one. However, there isn't enough room between the water meter and the tee for the irrigation system. What's more, the sprinkler reach and coverage is already somewhat suspect, and I'm not sure I would want to further reduce it.
Directly above the irrigation tee is where the main ball valve is (aside from the old style valves on the meter). I'd likely have to install the PRV just above this. However I'm not sure installing the PRV on the potable water side would do anything at all to reduce water hammer.
Any thoughts on what I should do here? Should I try a larger hammer arrestor even though the small one didnt help? Should I install the PRV on the household water side even if the irrigation stays at the full 80 psi?
Thanks for any suggestions.
I have a late 60's early 70's colonial, and over the last 2 to 3 years, Ive developed severe water hammer from the irrigation system closing zone valves. I've done my best to secure the pipe hander and strapping everywhere I have access to, and have opened a few walls to try to find the source without any luck.
After seeing some suggestions online, I drained both the hot and cool side in the hopes any air chambers would be re-filled with air. I've not actually seen any air chambers, so I dont know if the house actually has any. However after draining and re-filling, I did see quite a lot of disgusting murky water come out the taps and shower heads. Not sure if this is evidence of the existence of air chambers (and stagnant water). At first, this seemed to have helped reduce the water hammer, but after a couple dozen tests runs, I've still had a few large bangs.
The city water service appears to be around 80 psi, which seems high but not crazy high. Ive already installed a small water hammer arrestor screwed into the outdoor tap on the irrigation feed line. This did not do much if anything at all.
I'd like to add a pressure regulator since my home does not have one. However, there isn't enough room between the water meter and the tee for the irrigation system. What's more, the sprinkler reach and coverage is already somewhat suspect, and I'm not sure I would want to further reduce it.
Directly above the irrigation tee is where the main ball valve is (aside from the old style valves on the meter). I'd likely have to install the PRV just above this. However I'm not sure installing the PRV on the potable water side would do anything at all to reduce water hammer.
Any thoughts on what I should do here? Should I try a larger hammer arrestor even though the small one didnt help? Should I install the PRV on the household water side even if the irrigation stays at the full 80 psi?
Thanks for any suggestions.