jtrolt
New Member
Regardless of how many adjustments I make to the heat settings in contractor menu for this unit, it refuses to exceed 103 degrees absolute maximum supply output. I've gone to all extremes. Of course, Weil McLain refuses to talk to me. Plumber is poorly educated in radiant systems. Insists 90 degrees should be max output, as I'll have hot feet on my concrete slab, and any higher temps could "shock" the concrete. Seriously.
(Back story: This replaced a one year old Takagi tankless, sold to me as part of a Radiant Company system. Before it melted down, it was providing 110-120 degree heat to floor. On a 25 degree day, it would run 1.5 -1.75 hours, satisfying heat demand, then relax for 14-16 hours before needed. Boy do I miss those days. No, I couldn't replace with the same model. You see, Takagi claims the Federal government has now ruled tankless water heaters to be unapproved for closed radiant heat systems. Hence, no warranty. Of course, Radiant company heard all about it from me, but I see 9 months later they are still blissfully promoting this unit for their systems. Idiots.)
So- how do you get this complicated, smarter than you boiler to stop satisfying itself with its little secondary loop for hours on end, drip feeding an average 10 degree rise in temp to my system, and start pumping some hot water? I need 120 to 130 minimum, as that's what my system is designed for.
Is it just a defective unit?
(Back story: This replaced a one year old Takagi tankless, sold to me as part of a Radiant Company system. Before it melted down, it was providing 110-120 degree heat to floor. On a 25 degree day, it would run 1.5 -1.75 hours, satisfying heat demand, then relax for 14-16 hours before needed. Boy do I miss those days. No, I couldn't replace with the same model. You see, Takagi claims the Federal government has now ruled tankless water heaters to be unapproved for closed radiant heat systems. Hence, no warranty. Of course, Radiant company heard all about it from me, but I see 9 months later they are still blissfully promoting this unit for their systems. Idiots.)
So- how do you get this complicated, smarter than you boiler to stop satisfying itself with its little secondary loop for hours on end, drip feeding an average 10 degree rise in temp to my system, and start pumping some hot water? I need 120 to 130 minimum, as that's what my system is designed for.
Is it just a defective unit?