michla
New Member
Searching around I found a different view on the Franklin Electric /Gould etc skirmish. http://justicewater.com/articles/baad-pumps
That link has a TROJAN HORSE virus !
Good thing my malware blocked it.
Searching around I found a different view on the Franklin Electric /Gould etc skirmish. http://justicewater.com/articles/baad-pumps
They do have better safety system to keep them from running hot, but they are not made to cycle continuous.
It is best to buy a pump with a good warranty, and hope the company is around to honer it, when it breaks.
Have Fun.
Now I think they are all out to sell the cheapest pumps/motors they can through as many retailers as they can.
That link has a TROJAN HORSE virus !
Good thing my malware blocked it.
http://onlinelinkscan.com thinks it is OK.
Not much faith in Franklin anymore, huh?
My point is they are all made cheaply. So it is even more important than ever to limit the cycling to make the cheap pumps/motors last as long as possible.
Along the same topic, what is the life expectancy of a pump control box ? My Franklin control box is working fine, but the whole system was installed in 1984. When I spoke to Franklin Motors over the phone, the tech told me it's ok to reuse if it's working ok since it matches exactly with the new pump I'm going to install. But I'm wondering if a large capacitor that's been in service like that is worth trusting. Anyone?
You don't have to stop watering the lawn. You only need to match the draw so that it doesn't cycle.
As for buried, I think it is against code to bury wells anymore. It should stub out above ground.
I have a fairly small water tank so cycling would be an issue trying to water the grass in summer.
If you can't match the draw to the pump, a CSV can do it for you.
CSV = Cycle Stop Valve
www.cyclestopvalves.com
Cycling on/off is the biggest killer of pumps/motors.
It would not hurt to have a new cap on hand.
This is awkward, but...
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